Finished the Cinque Terra walk today, doing Corneglia to Riomaggiore.
The coastal track still closed, so went straight up the mountain on the 7a track, tough but worthwhile 0 - 360m in 45 min and 30 degrees C, then traversed across beautiful terraces in the shade of oaks, crossing streams, through the front garden of Casa se Pianca on track 6d. From there we traversed again through excruciatingly tiny terraces of vineyards hugging the cliff faces to Volastra, a small viticultural village with yet another Romanesque Church... We bypassed this one keen for cool, and descended from 340 metres to sea level again. It was steep stone steps the entire way down to Manarola. Long legs had a distinct advantage!
This walkways probably the prettiest and most varied. Take plenty of water, no wells along the way until Volastra.
Manorola pretty, with lovely clean, swimming around the point, as of you were walking the coastal trail to Vernazza. It seems bottomless, and was perfect to bless the scrunched toes from the direct descent. Also no stingers in sight. Worth swimming around to the grotto for a peak.
We checked out Billy's Restaurant in the back blocks of the village, and yes, up more steps, booked for dinner, then headed on to Riomaggiore.
As the coast road closed we headed uphill yet again, then in the heat decided we'd peel off and follow the road instead up to the top of the mountain again! Good move!! It brought us into the old castle of Riomaggiore, at the top of the town, so home in time to chill before 'frocking up' and going back to Manarola by train for dinner at Billy's. A seafood restaurant, where all pasta made on the premises, and they catch theor own fish, we had been promised a great meal and weren't disappointed.
We were recommended the 'black fish' which they only catch 3-4 times a year. A deep sea fish it was white flesh, delicious but rich! After local tuma carpaccio and a prawn, spaghetti, pine nut and tomato dish and grilled veggies,we were overdone.
Walk to station a relief before the train home.