4 nights in Lhasa

On the drive to Lhasa from Gyantse we went over a middle-sized pass at about 4300m (I think) and then along the side of a huge lake for ages. At the other end of the lake we wound up and up another 5000m+ pass where there was a great view over the lake and valley. We didn't stop there though as apparently they charge for parking up there per person. On the way down the pass on the other side we drove past an Odessey Overland truck which was a little smaller than ours... we waved to them but they didn't look all that impressed. We actually arrived in Lhasa earlier than expected at about 3, driving into town past the Potala Palace. We're staying at a nice hotel close to the palace and in the middle of town. Unfortunately once I got the internet set up in our room I got the bad news that my Pappou had died so I had a sad afternoon while Shane was out walking around town, but a few days of good food, good company and a bit of sightseeing and shopping made me feel a little less homesick. I'm really sorry I couldn't be there guys :( Only a few weeks until we'll be home after all.

During our few days here we saw the Potala Palace and the Jokhang temple, which are the main tourist sights.

We ended up paying ¥300 each to go to the Palace, when the face price on the ticket was only 100, but we were guaranteed tickets with the agency and others that tried to get in had to try a couple of days in a row (but I think they still managed to get in). We had a guide with us to tell us about each room, but each room also had a sign in english describing what it was so we could really have gone on our own. We climbed up some steep stairs to the front door of the White Palace. We were only allowed an hour inside apparently so we were rushed through a fair bit so we could see everything. Each room was so detailed with colourful murals and carved wood pillars and beams, and Buddha statues of every type. There were also large gold funeral stupas for some of the Dalai Lamas. In the white palace part we saw the Dalai Lama's bedroom and meditation room, and audience chamber. We saw a lot more rooms in the red palace section including the oldest part of the palace which was supposed to have been built in the 7th century. In all the palace was fascinating.

The Jokhang Temple is the holiest site in Tibet for Buddhists. It was first built in the 7th century, and Buddhist pilgrims come here from all over. The interior is quite dim and smoky with butter lamps but it is full of small chapels containing Buddhas and statues of Songtsan Gampo, the Tibetan king who built the palace and temple. We climbed up onto the roof where you get a nice view over the old town and the Potala Palace. After seeing the temple we did a spot of shopping in the markets around the temple. There is a lot of fake turquoise and coral beaded jewellery around but I think I managed to buy some genuine stuff.

On one of the days here I met up with a few of the girls and Sisi took us to a local hairdresser to get our hair cut. There we had a great hairdressing experience - a woman washed my hair for at least 20 minutes, massaging vigorously. I'm sure my hair has never been so clean! Then I had each arm massaged followed by my neck and back. The actual haircut was one of the best i've ever had, although it is quite layered and it's going to look terrible after a couple of weeks camping, but oh well... we couldn't believe it when the whole lot only came to ¥35! That's about £3.50... and I would have easily paid £50 in the UK...

We had a few nights out in Lhasa as well - there are some good bars around and the favourite was Bar 88, a nightclub full of Chinese guys who dance like maniacs. Not really what we expected to be doing in Lhasa! One night was Martenique's birthday and Amy had arranged a cake and it came complete with a huge candle that played happy birthday for ages until Steve broke it. Another night we had a ladies night where the girls went out for dinner but we ended up meeting up with the guys anyway at Bar 88 in the end.

The last night, after a cheap dumpling dinner we headed over to the square opposite the Potala Palace to see the musical fountains. The fountains shoot up in time to a mixture of Chinese and western classical music, it's quite nuts but awesome at the same time. It was a weird sort of place to have the beautiful Tibetan palace on one side of the square and this gaudy Chinese display on the other!

Lhasa is a great city, very Chinese according to Shane but it also has an interesting Tibetan old town area. We felt a bit more comfortable here at only 3500m but we're about to head up again so we'd better enjoy it while it lasts.