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GET US OUT OF QUEENSTOWN !!!!!!
We didn't think we would have time to update the blog during our NZ trip since it was a bit of a mad rush to tour the 2 islands in only 3 weeks. but as it happens, we're stuck in Queenstown because of a snow & ice storm, which resulted in all the roads being closed !! We've been here 3 days already, and by the look of it, we'll be here for another day or so.
For a moment we thought it wouldn't be too bad since a big Winter festival was being held this week, with plenty of shows, fireworks and fun games. But thanks to Mother Nature, everything had to be cancelled since none of the festival's organizers could make it to town...
So we're a bit lost for entertainment after a few days walking around. We've even joined the local video club to rent some DVD that we watch snuggled up in our tiny campervan, sitting as close as possible to our tiny heater. Is that desperate or what ?!
But , to be fair the weather hasn't been on our side since our arrival in NZ. That's what you get when you decide to visit NZ in the winter. Rain, rain, and more rain has been following us throughout our road trip, with a heavy fog unfortunately often hiding some of the spectacular landscapes we were passing. Freezing temperatures too. Not that it seems to bother the kiwis though, who for some incomprehensible reason are still walking around in shorts, while we spend 45mn every morning putting on multiple layers of clothes, without forgetting the compulsory gloves and hat !!!!
We got to Auckland about 10 days ago. Arriving in NZ was a bit like coming back home. All the classics are there : Domino's, Nando's (to Andy's great joy), Mc Donalds, Loyd's TSB, Body Shop, Toni&Guy...it's like strolling along Cheltenham high Street !!
Add to that a 400% price inflation compared to South America and you feel like you've never left the UK?.
It's only when hearing the kiwis speak that you realise you're still abroad, potentially in a non-English speaking country! Their accent is something to get used to . Like our friend Steve warned us, it's all a question of shifting the vowels along one: A is pronounced E; E is I; O is U and U brings us back to A ... Not confusing at all.
Almost 2 weeks in and we still have to ask them to repeat themselves ("Say what ??!").
The price inflation also had another great consequence : after 4 months of enjoying private bedrooms throughout South America we now find ourselves forced to sleep in bed bug ridden dormitories with other smelly, noisy & snoring 20s something partying backpackers... Our ear plugs became more essential than ever!
But the good news is that we have a car !! It's great to be at last free to go wherever we want, whenever we want ! And we did just that throughout the North Island.
Going around NZ is quite something. You can drive for hours without seeing a car or a house. Just huge extents of green hills , beautiful coastline or rugged mountains. And of course, more sheep than you ever dreamt of !
On our way from Napier (funky little Art deco town on the east coast) to Wellington, we managed to get lost without a good road map, while trying to go back onto the motorway. After 3 hours of driving in the nature without seeing one living soul, and with the night & rain falling on to us we started worrying a bit. Memories of classical horror movies, invariably starting with 2 tourists lost in a deserted place only to be massacred in the end by some sort of in-bred locals, resurfaced. Fortunately we made it back in one piece .
Our definite highlight in the North Island was our visit to the city of Rotorua. The so called "Sulphur city", built on a very active thermal zone is also the heartland of NZ's Maori culture. This complex and rich culture, that they're trying so hard to keep alive, fascinated us. We attended a great evening show with traditional meal & dances in an authentic Maori village. There is no denying that those big guys with their tattoos are very impressive and scary when doing their traditional dances, you don't feel like laughing even when they poke their tongues out at you. We now fully empathise with how the All Blacks' opponents feel when they're facing them doing the Haka.
After a fun packed week in the North Island we got ready about a week ago to take the ferry in Wellington to cross to the South island. It meant a 6.00 wake up call to load the car onto the ferry by 7.30. But come the morning, it was only when trying to start the engine that we realised the battery was completely flat. Result of the internal light being on for 2 full days !!
Immediate panic!
The streets were deserted, we didn't have any jump leads and we only had 40mn left to get to the port . Followed a frantic 30mn during which I undertook to stop every passing car in the street to find someone able to help out while Andy went running around trying to locate an open garage. He eventually found a garage open with the owner more than happy to come around to help us start the car. We literally arrived just on time to board the ferry before its departure ! Nothing beats a bit of adrenaline rush !
On the South island we chose to travel in a camper van, which we picked up in Christchurch. Don't ask why, it sounded like good fun before we got acutely aware of the freezing temperatures down there.
On our first night, we decided to camp by the lake Pukaki, in the central part of the South island. An amazingly turquoise blue lake, surrounded by mountains. We got there just when the night started falling. And because we were far away from any decent size city, the view of the night sky was incredible, with more stars than meet the eyes.
But it was only 10mn after turning off the engine that we realised how cold the night would be. To say that we managed to sleep would be a bit of an overstatement. We had to tuck ourselves fully clothed in our sleeping bag and under a quilt. Needless to say that we avoided at all cost having to get out to "relieve ourselves" during the night. The night was long....the temperatures in the van went under 0 degrees, and we woke up in the morning with ice formed on the inside of the windows !! But after running the engine and the gas cooker for 20mn in order to defrost our shivering bodies, we were fully rewarded by a fantastic view of the lake appearing like a diffuse turquoise light in the morning fog, and with everything around us icy white. Beautiful !
Nevertheless, as soon as we arrived in Queenstwon the following day we set up to find a powered camping site with absolutely no view but with that god blessed invention that is heating !! Adventurous, yes, but not so much during the winter !!
And here we are now in Queenstown, waiting to be freed ! We'll let you know how we get on. We're hoping to set off tomorrow, on time to get to the West Coast and see the Glaciers.
Hope you're all doing well in spite of the heavy floods all around the UK !!!
Lots of love
Soph and Andy xx
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