Day 8 Siem Reap.

An 8.30 start but still a full days adventures ahead. Our guide, Mr Sithom (Tom for short), and driver Mr Tier (he doesn't appear to have a short name so we call him Driver or Drive for short), pick us up for our visits to the Kulem mountain to see the 'Lingas' at Kbal Spean, before descending to visit a pink temple at Banteay Srei with a quick visit to the Landmine museum on the way back to Siem Reap.

The lingas are an amazing piece of dedication (no doubt with the added incentive that you kept your life) where a whole rock riverbed has been carved with lingas for miles, with the odd statue of Shiva thrown in for good measure. What is a linga? Well I am of too shy a disposition to tell you but I suggest 'googling linga kbal spean!'

Our 3 km trek through the jungle (1.5 up, 1.5 down) was equally entertaining due to the cacophony of insect noises. One insect had clearly mastered a woodsaw while, more impressively, one had mastered piloting a helicopter from start up of rotor blades to full blown acceleration of a sea king helicopter as it roared away.

Lunch was taken in a small local restaurant where Andy received an urgent 'chilli bulletin' . It transpired it was a 3 time chilli and an urgent evacuation to the loo (pun intended) was needed. Thankfully the ton of medical supplies provided to julie by the 'world health organisation' had a suitable remedy - one that will see Andy through to the end of the holiday.

After lunch we visited a small but elaborately carved temple, older than Angkor Wat. Allegedly the prettiest temple of all by virtue of its pink sandstone.

Then it was onto the Landmine museum, where thousands of landmines used in the various conflicts are shown. The museum is less of a display piece but more a testament to its founder who was a child soldier with the Khmer Rouge, laying landmines, swapped sides to the Vietnamese in defeating Pol pot then set about single handedly defusing landmines with his skills, whilst providing a home for children injured by unexploded mines. Quite sobering.

Finally after a shower it was out for dinner. We decided to give our tummies a rest from local foods so went for a pizza. Neglecting the more exotique crocodile or frog pizza we settled on ham, cheese and tomato.

Wandering round Siem reap two things became apparent. Firstly the roads are in excellent condition but clearly the pavement budget ran out by the end of January. The second fact is that I have become fluent in three Cambodian phrases...sewer s'dei which means hello, No tuk tuk which means I decline your offer of a taxi and no massage which means no massage.

A quieter day to ourselves tomorrow - honest!