Thursday 18th November

We breakfasted and collected provisions for our 9 hour flight without trimmings to Bangkok.

As the skies slowly cleared after leaving a cloudy and rainy Melbourne, the landscape revealed below showed occasional lakes and rivers, winding through a vista of beige and olive green cut by an occasional road and very little else. We are very high up but there is little to see through the window of this part of Australia, sheltered to the East by the Great Dividing Range. Some of the lakes are very big but apart from the meandering river course that feeds them and a thin line of surrounding vegetation there is very little else. Although the exhibition led by Burke and Wills is retold in a slightly mocking way with regard to the provisions they took, they knew nothing of the land that lay ahead of them and I for one wouldn't attempt this journey with much less. I'd also want a 4WD or two but I'd take less salt and camels. Despite their demise they were celebrated as heroes and I now know why. Australia has lived up to and in some ways exceeded my expectations. I would happily come again to see more and if that is funded by a big win on my single premium bond, I would be sharing the experience with family and friends so keep your fingers crossed.

2 hours have passed and we are only just flying over Uluru. How the hell did this vast place remain virtually undiscovered for so long?! The Gods or the land or just good luck shone on the Aborigines and wildlife that lived here for 60000 years. True to form, it didn't take us long to c*** it all up for them. Most of the country is as it was when Cook landed, it is rich in mineral wealth, much undiscovered and I'm sure it will survive much longer than most of Europe. It has been unaffected by the present recession and yet at home we only hear stories of dingoes eating babies and loonies killing backpackers. Perhaps we're only told what they want us to hear.

We have been flying for almost 3 hours and the north coast has just come into view. The next part of our adventure is about to start. Everyone else on the plane is either asleep or watching a documentary on cheese making - I kid you not. Ground speed 133mph. Flying over Kathrine and we've been up for over 3 hours with still over 5 hours to go. Provisions are running low and I may soon be forced to eat some liquorice. Not a good idea in the confines of a plane and we're still not yet over the sea.

We were met by Zoe and Rob at Bangkok International Airport. After declaring our 4 bottles of wine at customs to avoid running the risk of paying 4x the duty or 10 years in prison or both "Nothing to declare" said the customs officer and pointed us to the exit.

We travelled on the new train and then a taxi to their apartment. Bangkok is very big indeed but they live near to the centre close to temples, markets and the river. Beer with Rob before bed.

Friday 19th November

Our hosts departed for work and after breakfast and some photo work on the computer, we stepped out of the complex and our comfort zone. We walked to the rived and caught a ferry to Wat Pho on the opposite bank (14bhat). It's the home of the reclining Buddha along with many hundred others. The giants of Wat Pho were magnificent with their tall pointed spires, reflected in the traditional Thai pointed hats. It was a feast of gold leaf, reds and yellows with small tranquil gardens around trees with statues of monks and animals, including a reindeer (I think). Each had its own piped music and some contained small fountains. It was all very peaceful and the 50bhat to see the Buddha was well worth it.

An enormous reclining figure covered in gold leaf with such a serene and calming face. Some say the feet resemble "flippers" and that may be why she chose the recumbent posture, who knows. We walked on to the King's old palace but decided that it needed more time, so we returned through the Amulet market to catch the boat back across the river. As well as Amulets of all sorts and sizes, we could've bought almost anything else. From monkey wrenches to caged birds, we didn't though.

A 10bhat (20p) bottle of water while waiting for the boat was more refreshing than it's $3.5 equivilant in Australia.

Zoe and Rob were both home when we returned and Zoe was surprised at our adventure, expecting us not to venture too far on our first day. Rob's 2 brothers were over and he was planning an alcohol fuelled night of unbridled revelry with them. Zoe said that we would take things easy with a meal and a stroll along the Khao Sann Road.

Rob, Glen and Apple, Edward, Stuart and Lyn were at the same restaurant when we arrived, so we met up with them after we'd eaten and had a drink while Amie had a foot massage. We left them to it and strolled back through the busy, colourful thoroughfare before returning by taxi to their apartment.

Saturday 20th November

Rob and the boys (who looked much the worse for wear and in need of sleep) arrived with breakfast late in the morning. They consumed copious quantities of water and then we set off on the bus and then the train (because of heavy stationary traffic) to the covered market. We could see why Tabby enjoyed herself so much. The amount of clothes at very low prices, must have felt like heaven to her!

I find markets the world over a little intimidating and they rarely have anything I want but this place could clear up my Christmas present problems in one hit, if there's any money left on our return.

We had lunch and Rob took his brothers to get them off to Koh Pha Ngan. A full moon party tomorrow, promised to top up their blood alcohol levels and play havoc with their circadian rhythms. "Oh to be young again" - "Not".

Zoe, Amie and I boarded a bus as the rain started. The traffic was just as heavy and the slow progress meant that we caught up with the bus in front at one stop. We were moved to the other bus, so that ours could return for more fares. Unfortunately it was still raining heavily and the road was ankle deep in water. It stopped raining before we reached our destination, in fact it appeared that the rain hadn't even reached that part of the city.

We ate in a Tapas restaurant that evening, when Rob returned and quite delicious it was too.

Sunday 21st November

Amie and I walked over the bridge to the national gallery after breakfast and amongst the displays of ancient Thai art was an exhibition of contemporary art. Including sculptures, detailed painting, silk thread work and abstract collages. The Khao Sann Road, which took so long to reach last night, was just around the corner. So we had lunch and then Amie found a pair of comfortable elastic waisted trousers, since her bump has grown quite a bit.

On our return to the apartment block, Zoe and Rob had been busy making floating offerings (Krathong) from flowers and banana leaves for the Loy Krathrong festival that night. We made ours and at 6pm with Glen and Apple, headed off to the new bridge to float our floral handicraft complete with nail and hair clippings (out with the old and in with the new) and 1bhat for prosperity.

There were so many people making the same pilgrimage or selling food, floating offerings, sunglasses, mp3 players, rivets - oh anything you could possibly need.

We launched our offerings from a boat and watched the floating lanterns being released and the firework displays. Had some delicious spicy food and beer on the way home in the Sand Bar (on the roof, floor covered in sand) while more people continued to flood down the road to the river. There will be many tired people at work and school tomorrow.