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Our one month of volunteering in beautiful Sapa has come to an end and we have just arrived in the country side of Nihn Bihn, before we meet with Grants parents.
Not really sure where to start as its really quite hard to sum up the Sapa experience with words… hm maybe best to split the thoughts running around my head into three parts; the Hmong ladies, the students and general chit chat!
The Hmong ladies: These women top it when it comes to the toughest ladies who I have ever met. Our first experience of these beautiful women when arriving in Sapa was the constant play back of 'where you from? … Buy from me??' I have done some rough calculations and estimate that this question would come off each womans lips at least 60 times a day. However since realising we weren't just tourists dropping in for two days we began to get to know them. The Hmong women's English is incredible for having learnt only through conversations with tourists. This added to their great sense of humour. A group of women would laugh and make jokes about the way I walked through the streets when attempting the occasional morning exercise!
Since nearly being wiped out by the war, Sapa has strengthened itself considerably thanks to the massive floods of tourists that have been pouring in since its 'discovery'. This has given the women of the minority tribes, Hmong and Red Zao, a way of earning a very very small and sporadic income.
From lunches in the markets (with things that are too gross to be named under my nose), conversations in the streets and going to different villages, these ladies have taught me many values. -Gratitude: One of the women we made friends with told us that every morning she would wake at 4 am so she could get food ready for her pigs and her family, before setting off for the three hour daily trek into the markets in Sapa. If she did not sell anything, which was often the case, she would have to for-go the motor bike fare back and double her walking journey for the day. This woman, Moo, had also lost two of her babies, yet her youthful face and happy heart taught me that sometimes there may be no such thing as a 'problem'. Having lunch in her tiny wooden and extremely bare house was a very humbling experience.
We were fortunate to have a similar experience in a village called Taphin, where this time we stayed with a family from the Red Zao minority. Three generations of the same family lived in this very basic wooden house which took them five years to gather the wood to build. No stoves, microwaves or mattresses, everything at this homestay was stripped down to the necessities. There was no such thing as time here and it was so lovely to witness the close nit family laughing heartily and talking over their meals near the fire until late at night (made me crave the hope of living with all my family in the near future). Outside you could hear the echo of the other tribes laughter. Our alarm clock in the morning was a rowdy rooster shadowed by squealing boars, and we had our first taste of physical labour through helping the family plant corn in their fields. This experience definitely made me really appreciate the easy access of the food I get at home!
The students: Very easy to simply ramble on with praise. After two weeks of teaching it was really nice to know the majority of the students names. To start with, it was a very confusing sound of music melody on repeat, Miss La, Miss Me, Miss So etc etc! As there were two other teachers when we arrived we were lucky enough to be able to teach in small groups, who, despite my initial frustration of their shyness, I grew extremely fond of. Mr Cau and his wide, shy smile and nervous giggle, Miss Gom with her strength and willingness to converse in English, and Miss Khu, whose wide eyes, determination and genuine heart has left a very special imprint. Then there is Mr Bahn, one of the most kind natured and genuine young men I think I have ever met. His fighting spirit and enthusiasm at pronouncing words and playing games brought much laughter and warmness to my heart. On international womens day he brought all us female teacher a rose! Grant said that seeing Mr Bahns face and reaction when he gave him his sneakers and jacket on our last day was the highlight of his time in Sapa.
The students laughter when playing class games was a blessing to be a part of. The kids work so hard, looking after themselves and spending most of their 12 hour days devoted to studying both English and Vietnamese. Saying goodbye to the kids left us with a very heavy heart and I found myself promising that I would return. When the time came to say goodbye, there was an influx of lovely letters and home-made bracelets which will be a beautiful memory of what the students have taught me.
And now for the closing general chit chat!
Climbing the highest peak in Vietnam, Mount Fansipan was a definite highlight of the trip so far. We were fortunate to share the experience with our two friends Ben and Dani, another couple volunteering from the UK. We walked and climbed for ten hours and on the way back down the steep slopes we continuously remarked at how the hell we ever made it up! The snickers bar on top of the summit therefore was the best chocolate bar I have ever bitten down on!
One of the things we enjoyed most about Sapa was feeling as though we were surrounded by family. For our going away dinner we treated ourselves to a three course meal with the other volunteers. Wow, was it nice to put a dress on and have salads with fetta and other amazing cheeses!
On that note, my mind won't think anymore as my stomach tells me its lunchtime! So I think that's all for now.
Next time may be from Chang Mai in Thailand, before we get ready for our London move.
Cannot wait to hear from you ALL (so that's an email from EVERYONE okay!) goings on etc!
Love to you all
Anna xxx
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