Korea offered a significant contrast to our experience in China. Seoul is a modern, clean city, with excellent infrastructure. Though of course a much smaller country in terms of land area and economy, the Koreans have one thing the Chinese seem to lack - manners. OK, they do have a tendancy to spit and yes, we were the closest to the exit door of our ferry today, though came in close to last at immigration, such was the low rise mini peoples eagerness to gain an advantage. But otherwise, they are respectful, well meaning people. We like them.

We expelled four days in the capital, one of which involved a tour to the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ). This is a two kilometer wide no-mansland between North and South Korea. There are areas we passed close to which has not seen foot prints for 50 years. A million landmines makes sure of that.

We desended 73 meters down into the earth to take a look at one of the infiltration tunnels the North Koreans have dug - or should we say dynamited. 6 years of blowing through granite. We viewed North Korea from a vantage point, where we could make out the worlds tallest flagpole. At 140m, the North has one this battle. Their flag weighs 275kg.

Military checks, a peppering of UN soldiers and a regimentary attitude towards the bus loads of tourists made for an unusual outing. Curiously, Korean nationals are not allowed to visit the DMZ.

The day ended on a sad note when we discovered that Phill's Dad had passed away. Our first thoughts are with Phill's mum, though she is being well looked after by his sister, Mandy. We have spent the past three days trying to figure a way home. Easter is proving to be a busy time. Tonight we have struck lucky by securing two seats on a flight this coming Friday, 13th April. In the meanitme, we are trying to make the most of the last seven days of allseven. We write this from Fukuoka, Japan.