Our quick fire tour of Namibia came to an end and we left behind the dry desert air. So dry infact, your bogies turned to biltong.
With an overnight in Jo'burg, we secured passage to Lilongwe, Malawi.
We walked to the central bus station and flea market in an attempt to both pass the afternoon away and try to figure out our transport options to the north.
As we drew closer, the roads narrowed, crowds grew denser and acrid exhaust fumes hung heavy in the mid afternoon sun. Stale sweat and the overpowering odour of urine completed the assault on our senses.
As impatient cars bibbed and honked their way through the crowds, children called out 'mazungu mazungu,' meaning white man. Indeed, the only mazungu we saw were each other. A sense of unease slightly abbaited as we held on to our empty fanta bottles as a form of defence should anything unsavoury occur.
We looked at each other as yet another local walked diagionally across our path. We knew what each other was thinking.... we had finally arrived in Africa.
Taking advise from travellers at our fortified camp, we decided to head to Nkhata Bay, 400km north. A short and frankly very bumpy flight on a 15 seater plane to Mzuzu delivered us to our first mini bus taxi. Now if the idea of sitting for an hour at the back of a dilapadated toyota Hiace, waiting to fill with over 20 locals, in 38 degree heat, sounds romantic - think on! The eleven seater did fill. And carried on filling. The tailgate only held on by a strip of rubber and tied with string to avoid an 'ejection' as it was described. Our seat was barely fixed to the floor and shared with two others besides ourselves. The springs no longer sprung and the roads full of holes. After the push start, the police check point required that 3 leave the vehicle. They did, though only to join us again five minutes up the road!
Still we arrived a couple of hours later to Nkhata Bay. Our vision of jet skiis and post card racks were soon shattered.
Still, we adjusted and were soon smiling again upon finding our lake side cabin. To give you the picture, our accommodation set us back a mere 8 quid, a hearty dinner for two nicker and... wait for it.... cold as ice Carlsberg beers for 45p. Repeat after me... HAPPY DAYS INDEED!
Other than reading and relaxing for four days or so, we only had one note worthy incident. A boat ride out on the lake. We were dropped some 500 meters off shore to snorkel. The other members of the trip swam like dolphins. Phill and Sue did not. With a rock to cling to half way back, it became apparant that Phill was growing rather panicky. Sue calmed the situation and following some deep breathing exercises, we continued to shore. No more than 50 meters from shore, Phill again had a panic attack. Breathing all out of kilter, the desperate calls for the boat finally reached the beach. Yep, Phill was life saved. To be honest, it was actually pretty scary. Once Phill was hauled in like a dead seal, Sue herself required assistance.
We spent the following 42 hours on the Ilala ferry. Quite an experience in itself. The tired old vessel was being loaded with maize, rice, people, livestock and, yep, us. We arrived in an outboard boat and proceeded to the First Class deck. We left the other half dozen backpackers to fend for themselves on the deck as we checked into our cabin. Believe it or not, our companions, perhaps being too vigilant on the budget front, went on to down grade to 2nd class for the second day. Not massively pleasant. The lower deck a swath of humanity and, again, the enevitable stale body odour.
We were the only, repeat, only people in First Class on day two. We had the bar and top deck to ourselves. Flashpackers rejoice.
We arrived 9 hours late at our destination - thankfully. We were due in at 0300, so counted the delays at each stop with glee.
Back at Lilongwe, following a ride on the back of bicycles (with our packs on), in the back of a packed pick-up, an even more packed mini bus complete with 'fresh' fish and a long walk to our camp.
We awoke this morning to the news that there is no water. Imagine. The irony is that the rains arrived overnight for the first time in 6 months! So we headed for the internet cafe in the hope of cheering ourselves up, only for there to be a power cut. 'Come on Sue', Phill declared, 'we are so out of here.' And without fuss, we spread our wings and took flight to Jo'burg. We are writing this in the splender of Pretoria Backpackers. We have towels and a TV. HAPPY DAYS INDEED! We are going to eat under a/c tonight and Sue gets to visit a prison tomorrow. What could be finer. PaS