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A funny show last night. It opened with a multimedia display about the artist, a Gaucho dancer who has been in show business since he was a child. Then a lot of pictures of him with massive perm, open satin shirts and mustachios back in the 80s and 90s. There was a flash of pyrotechnics and this chap burst onto the stage in a white satin bare-chested gaucho suit and hat, looking very much like Antonio Banderas as Zorro after Zorro had maybe spent too long at the bbq buffets……. There was a lot of posturing and whip cracking and Bob and I looked at each other in horror at the 45 minutes that was to come. Never fear…. It was all part of a very witty comedy routine this guy did making fun at himself really, interspersed with dancing and amazing whip skills. He used conventional whips, ropes with a solid ball on the end, and firey ropes. Spinning and whirling them soooo fast and beating out his dance rhythms with them while he danced. Very exciting to watch and it was really good in a very very risky sort of way. A knife-edge between humour and cringe. LOL
Today we set out to explore Montevideo by bus and by foot. It was really hot- 30C and boiling sun. We started with the hop on-hop off bus which was pretty good value for 15 USD each. We got off at the Legislative Palace but then found out it didn't have a tour for another two hours and that in Spanish. So, we marked it for another time and went on. Explored Prado Park which is a fantastic green space around a river which contains several famous bronze sculptures. The first we found was La Diligencia which celebrates the bravery of the 20th Century settlers who set out to settle inland Uruguay. Fantastic scene of a family in a covered wagon and team being led by a chap on horseback. The other monument in the park was one to the last 5 native Indians of Uruguay. After the final battle between the Spanish settlers and the Indians, only 5 survived and they were remorselessly hunted down and then imprisoned in individual cages and sent to France as exhibits of an alien species. They died in captivity. In the 1980s the Uruguayans began to feel bad about this aspect of their history so erected a monument showing the 5 native Uruguayans. Sad story.
Took the bus tour all the way round, seeing many squares, the Uruguayan football stadium that hosted the first South American World Cup and has now been declared an historic site by FIFA, an art deco district planned in the 30s as a "garden suburb" and a Victorian district full of gorgeous homes. Also saw some of the town beaches which looked very nice and were clearly popular with people.
Eventually we got off in Constitution Square and went to visit the Teatro Solis which is the Opera House. One of the workers very kindly took us inside and showed us the auditorium and let us look around. They were erecting the stage for the next production. A lovely theatre, beautiful chandeliers made in Sheffield. Had a glass of wine and a beer in their café and used the wifi then walked on through the town centre along the pedestrianized Ramblas. It all just reinforced what a fantastic city this is. So many green spaces, sculptures, lovely buildings. Had a look in the Cathedral which was very nice, quite simple and plain really. Finally arrived back at the port and had a wander around the old covered market which is now full of bbq and wine bars. A really super atmospheric place, would be great for dinner. We re-hydrated with another cold beer to use up the last of our pesos and staggered back to the ship (staggering because of the heat not the beer…..)
Would definitely like to spend more time here. Less exciting than Rio but a lot safer and more pleasant too. Would love to have had time to visit a winery - their Tannat wine is super - and to see some tango, swim from the beaches, explore the city some more, stay on an estancia….. Fingers crossed we may come back some day.
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