Day 25: Mon 24th Feb: Karatu to Seronera

We get an early start, buy some canned beer in Karatu at a ridiculous price and head for Serengeti. We had agreed to go via Lake Natron and a volcano called Oldoinyo Lengai and perhaps later regret that decision as the road is unbelievable. We battle along at a snails pace and are always amazed as a truck or bus comes bowling along this awful road at twice the speed we are managing. The repairs to these vehicles must be never-ending and we often come across them broken down with all their poor passengers sitting at the side of the road. I have decided that in Tanzania anything is called a road as long as some sort of vehicle can travel along it and it is outlined by litter tossed out of trucks and busses.

We see many Maasai this day and are always amazed at the number of livestock they have and the poor, dry conditions they live in. The land is terribly over-grazed and has this awful, barren look. They are not friendly and we have been warned not to take photo's so we usually don't. Some of the children go to school but others are tending livestock. Irrespective of whether they are in school uniform or not, they often have their hand out demanding 'money' which I think is the only English word they know. Some are content to wave or stonily ignore us, but often the hand comes out. On the odd occasion we have had children threaten to throw stones at or try to hit the vehicle with sticks when we are not forthcoming with a handout. The SA Mom in me just itches to jump out of the car with my shoe in my hand and give them a good klap, but alas it is not to be…

We see some Maasai with bow and arrows and assume they do some hunting as well although we have read that they are allowed in National Parks because they don't eat game. Perhaps they are shooting birds.

There a three tolls on this route, $20 + $20 + $50 - at least we get an official slip although still feeling a little ripped off, especially considering the state of the roads!

Oldoinyo Lengai is an impressive active volcano which last erupted about five years ago and we have to painstakingly cross many rivers of larva which give a very bumpy ride. Lake Natron (a soda lake) is impressive in the distance but the road bypasses it so we don't really get very close. We start to look for a place to have a 'bush camp' as we are running out of daylight and won't make Serengetti today. Luckily (for me) we don't find anywhere that is not overrun with Maasai or their livestock and we happen upon a little town called Wasso and go to the Wasso Campsite on the outskirts. Let's just say the owner is shocked at six Mzungu on his doorstep but is very welcoming. He hustles everyone into getting the donkey filled and lit and after much ado, we have a hot shower. This is a real luxury compared to the long-drop toilet! We do drink a couple of beers in his shebeen and then do our own braai. Just at bed time the heavens open so we are able to go to sleep in peace with just the sound of the rain.

Unfortunately the next day we discover that Simon's sandals have been nicked so that leaves a rather sour taste to our stay.

Day 26: Tues 25th Feb: Wasso to Serengeti

More bad roads and the challenge of black cotton soil which can apparently be rather tough going in the rain. We arrive at the Serengeti western gate (another $220 entry fee) and make our way another 90km to Seronera. It's a long game drive, but we have lots to see on the way to distract us from the unbelievably corrugated dirt road. Really bone-shaking - we won't have kidney stones at this rate, but I could do with a kidney belt! Serengeti is everything we ever imagined it would be - completely stunning and we look forward to spending another day here.

We do have a look at the Seronera Lodge as well and it is stunning in a lovely setting. The hotel is impressive but the cost is prohibitive - $305 per person per day - wow!

We stay at the Public Campsites (Tumbili is our choice) and no hot water but relatively clean ablutions. Overnight hear hyena and Karlien bravely sits up at the campfire and sees a hyena have a good scratch on our vehicle's bumper. Simon and I sleep peacefully and don't feel or hear the hyena or the lions she sees just adjacent the camp.

Day 27: Wed 26th Feb: Serengeti

After an early start including French toast we head off in search of the migration. After 2km we see a group of hyena, then a lone lion walking down the road, then about 40 buffalo and another 38 elephants! We see the migration in the distance and head for it. On the way we see a male lion on a kill with one female and about 4 cubs milling around a rock koppie (hill). We then head further from the main drag and come across a pride of 14 lions chilling right next to the track - there is no-one else around, only us. Another 20km down the main drag sees us come across the migration, with wildebeest as far as the eye can see, some crossing the road right in front of us - it is truly amazing. We take a detour track away from the other vehicles and come across another herd about 2km away and we are in amongst them, unbelievable. We decide then to stay off the main dirt track and circle back to camp, coming across a pair of male lions lying right beside the track dozing - proves that there does not seem to be a particular place the lions doze at, but they are territorial and do not "follow" the herds but rather pick off as the herds pass their territories. We see quite a few hyena and of course plenty of vultures travelling around. On this side track we also see another 40 elephant having a mud bath (not the same 40 as before we believe) and then best of all I think I spot a leopard in a tree - but hey, it's actually a lion! I'm elated and disappointed at the same time as we have yet to spot a leopard.