Day 39: Mon 10th March: Kigali to Lake Byunyoni, Uganda

Our guide stayed in the only camp site over the last two nights, so we hook up with him outside town at the Engen and fill up the vehicles. We have driven this road (to Ruhangeri - towards Volcanes National Park and the gorillas) before.

We reach the Uganda border at about 10am and it's slow but straightforward (however, I believe the Uganda Revenue Authority guy tried to scam us telling us he put the wrong amount or road tax into the computer and would have to pay the difference himself - say no more).

The border was quite interesting in that the officials were extremely officious. We were handed immigration forms to complete and told to go to the police who dealt with the three driver's first. The official then announces "Next!" and the three ladies are still completing the forms so we don't move. He then announces "Next! You are wasting my time!" Of course I couldn't resist a bit of sarcasm so with my best smile I rush up to his desk and say "I am so sorry for wasting your time" (we were the only people there)… At least he smiled and all was forgiven - twit!! The guy at the Revenue Authority gets chatty (before trying his scam) and tells us that they hear all about SA and how dangerous it is. He says Uganda is very safe - unlike dangerous SA! He says; "A Government that cannot guarantee the safety of its citizens cannot be called a Government!" Would someone please advise our Government? (Lyn)

Into Uganda we go and head for Overlanders Camp at the end of Lake Byunyoni. The scenery is spectacular although the cultivation does not seem as organized as the Rwandans. The camp site is right on the lake edge and after a swim and a beer or two, Dave makes dinner then we retire to the pub and play some pool and sit round the open pit fire - very relaxing.

It doesn't rain overnight so we pack up in the dry and head out after breakfast for Kabale National Park which is reported to be chimp centrale. There's a bit of bad dirt road on the way and some horrendous potholes as we drive through Queen Elizabeth National Park (she would s*** herself if she saw what this looks like now), but fortunately the tropical deluge hits us on a stretch of tar - it's quite unbelievable the volume of rain that lashes down - at least it gets the people, bikes, goats etc off the road for a while! Before the deluge we pass the Equator line and take some pictures - now in the northern hemisphere, presumably the sink water rotation will now reverse?

On arrival at the Primate Lodge at the Kabale National Park we take a chalet but decide not to do the chimp visit - it's 3 to 4 hours and no guarantees and we do not want to spoil the special day we had with the gorillas, especially as the rangers tell us sightings are not guaranteed.

Day 40: Tues 11th March: Lake Bunyonyi to Primate Lodge Kabale National Park, Uganda

We manage to see the blue-headed Agama lizard and the beautiful black and white Colobus monkeys from the balcony of our room at the Primate Lodge. The balcony is a deck at the same sort of height that the monkeys are and they are as curious about us as we are about them.

Day 41: Wed 12th March: Primate Lodge to Red Chilli, Murchison Falls National Park.

We leave early morning to continue our adventure through all the crater lakes. There are apparently more than 60 crater lakes and the scenery is stunning. We go right up onto the rim of one of the crater's and stop for coffee at a lodge on a coffee estate. Stunning views and the most adorable 6-month-old Great Dane puppy to play with as well as great coffee.

We have a look at the Murchison Falls Lodge and then move on to Red Chilli accommodation in the National Park. Not a great alternative, but we decide to stay there as its closer to the Falls which we want to see the next morning. When we enter the National Park there is no-one at the gate to collect the fee so we just drive through. The next morning we drive to the Murchison Falls and they are really spectacular. This is a great tourist attraction but once again, there is no-one at the gate to collect the entrance fee. We hike down beside the falls to take photos from the bottom so at least get some exercise as well as the stunning views. Then back in the car and off towards Entebbe where we will join up with our fellow-travellers. The roads in the park are atrocious so it is slow-going, but we eventually get to the park gate. Much bluster about why we don't have a receipt for our entrance fee (there was no-one manning the gate!!) In the end we are charged $150 for the car (for those roads!) and $40 dollars per person per night. Ouch! We all feel badly ripped off as you really get very little in the way of facilities for this and think Uganda might just be exhausting the tourists.

Day 42: Thurs 13th March: Murchison Falls National Park to Entebbe

We crack on towards Entebbe and first have to find our way through and around Kampala. Once again the driving is not for the faint-hearted, but we make our way through. We reach Entebbe and meet up with our guide, Dave, who has in the meantime had his vehicle engine repaired - at a cost of R15 000! Ouch! They are camped at the local backpackers and the rest of us decide we need a little R&R and look for alternatives. The other couple find a guesthouse that suits them and we book into the Lake Victoria hotel for some relaxation and catch up time. Stunningly clean bathroom has taken on a new importance in my life! We find a reasonable sports bar for a drink and the owner recommends a local restaurant which we would never have found on our own (Faze 3). We go there for dinner and as always, are interested in all the security scanning patrons and searching the car before we are allowed in. The food is so good that we book for the next night as well.

Day 43: Fri 14th March: Entebbe

B discovers his vehicle's suspension has given in so he has to spend the next day getting it re-welded and Simon takes the Doddle back to Kampala (bravely!) for another service as we have now travelled over 10 000km's and the vehicle has to be serviced every 5000km. We reckon we have another 5000km to go to Cairo so this should be the last service en-route. We chill for the rest of the day and it is raining and I am bored so I decide to have my hair cut by the hotel hairdresser - Ooooops! Not my best idea, but my fringe is not hanging in my eyes anymore.

Day 44: Sat 15th March: Entebbe to The Haven (near Jinja). Start Odo 11 158km

Again I have to negotiate Kampala traffic, but Saturday morning is a bit more relaxed and I lead the group (having negotiated it before) around the bypass and onto the Jinja road. The target is The Haven camp site on the banks of the White Nile (between Lake Victoria and Lake Kyoga) adjacent some grade 3 and 4 rapids - I can't do the rafting as my shoulder is killing me at the moment.

The Haven camp is great, clean, great views and we take a sunset cruise to bird-watch (and have a beer or two of course) on the Nile. Two noisy adjacent campers party late into the night and we vengefully all rev our cars very loudly on our way out when we pass their tent (which looks like a bomb hit it).