A Deliciously Divine Day. Packed up my wee room in Oshiage, Tokyo, folded up my futon and minimised my luggage for my pending few days off in the countryside. First though, important admin. Cutting short my time in Tokyo/Japan, has meant that a fair number of the (admittedly likely overexcessive - Elspeth you were indeed correct) items of clothing that I have brought in my mammoth monstrosity of a rucksack, are now obsolete. So I whizzed off to the Post Office with Yumi on the back of her bike, with cardboard box wobbling in the front basket, and me wobbling on the back. What an adventure! I`ve never been on the back of a bike since being traumatised by the unfortunate accident Oli and I had when we were little (resulting in more blood than I could handle, a trip to the hospital and several stitches), but this time I was given no choice. So I clutched onto Yumi`s jeans, as we wheeled through the backstreets of our little neighbourhood, depositing my box at the Post Office. We arrived back home in a giggling heap, and I then gathered up my stuff, said my adios, and set off on yet another social mission, to meet another friend of a friend. An hour later, I was lost once again, and marching grumpily towards Tokyo station, sticky in the muggy heat, and grumbling to myself about why I always had to make things more stressful than needs be. When I had finally wended my way around the labyrinth that is Tokyo station, no fewer than 3 directions later, I finally found my way to the Western-style restaurant that Mihoko had chosen. It was well worth the effort, as Mihoko was completely charming, and was yet another fascinating contact, who works mainly with a charity organisation which raises money providing academic scholarships between Japan and the rest of the world. We chatted over the most Western meal I`ve eaten since getting here: a margherita pizza and salad! Yet again, I was really touched by the generosity and kindess of someone who knows me only through a friend, as Mihoko invited me to lunch, then walked with me all the way to deposit me right outside my Kyoto-bound train. I then had a lovely 3 hours` quiet to ponder away, as the express train zipped through the bustling mania of Tokyo`s suburbs, through the lush green hills, rice paddies and small villages on the way to Kyoto. I have a sneaking feeling of guilt though that I may have missed seeing Fuji as I may, just may, have had a little snooze at the crucial moment... :S I will have to keep my eyes glued to the window on my return! Kyoto is a city I could quickly fall in love with - and yes, there is a theme here....I do have a tendency to fall for places fast and hard! Kyoto though, in comparison with Tokyo, is like the Oxford/Cambridge compared to the busy metropolis of London. Less than three minutes after stepping off the train, possibly something to do with having been conditioned to understand Japanese logic after 10 days in the capital, I was on the underground headed towards the area I am staying in tonight. The differences between the two cities are very quickly apparent, particularly on the tube, where people actually made eye contact with me, and there was actual talking and laughing. Personal space has instantly decreased, and I realise that I like this. There is something about Tokyo (similar to London) where people are coiffed, smartly turned out, and slightly aloof. Here it feels like the people are more real, slightly less fashion-conscious/obsessed. And that suits me just fine. Like Oxford and Cambridge, Kyoto`s bike culture is more apparent, though there are a greater number of bikes in Tokyo than London, here the quantity is instantly far greater. Map in hand, I successfully navigated my way to the Hostel, which is an adorable little place recommended, I think, by Lonely Planet. A good, proper hostel, clean, simple and full of character. Kozo, my english-speaking host (who has apparently spent time in London, New York and New Zealand) quickly showed me the wheres and hows of the dinky little place, plus my little room, and then rented me a bike - oh what joy! I had been thinking on the train that I really needed a hefty whack of exercise after being cooped up in the city, and biking proved to be it. With Kozo`s wicked map in hand, I immediately got going, and nipped up the road (zigzagging from left to right as the Kyotans seem not to be able to make up their mind which side they want to keep to...) and did a glorious loop round the neighbouring temple. It`s so beautiful it is difficult to describe. The temples shut early, at 4pm, so by this time (6), they were well and truly devoid of visitors, but for that reason even more incredible, as I had the whole place to myself. I did a loop of the neighbourhood, including the run of shops nearby, picked up an ice-cold soda from one of the vending machines and came back to park my bike and sit soaking up the quiet and solitude in a state of utter bliss. The wooden temples, painted red, are shrouded in the most complete silence, which following the hustle and bustle of Tokyo is almost a shock. But a good one. The only sound I could hear when I shut my eyes was the sound of birdsong (real, rather than piped as per the Tokyo metro!!). Enormous fir trees, so old than they have to lean on enormous wooden crutches, fill the air with sweet fir scent. I walked round what seemed to be a tiny cemetary full of faded and worn Buddha-shaped stones, unfortuanately unable to read the language to confirm what the area was for me. I felt as serene as a little buddha when I finally and reluctantly left the temple area, to go for another wander along the street of shops to pick up my dinner - a can of sweet plum wine (my liqueur of choice here) plus a plateful of sushi. And I`m sitting in the tiny common room of my hostel, plum wine in hand, listening to some music that Kozo has put on the cd player for me...early bed for me tonight before a whopping great day of temples tomorrow. Ciaoooo xxx