Jodhpur

When we arrived at our new hotel in Jodhpur, we were shown to a grotty, windowless square shaped bolt hole, which sported a mattress as hard as the mountain rock that overlooked the city. A total come down after the paradise offered in Pushkar. However, only a few minutes later, a manager insisted we moved to a deluxe room, free of charge. The one star Trip Advisor review is a formidable foe few dare to f**k with.

After having switched rooms, we decided to venture outside so as to get a feel for the new city. I instantly preferred it to Jaipur. Yes there were lots of bazaars, but shopkeepers rarely pressured us to go inside. Yes there was staring, but any feelings of intimidation were negated by the welcomed presence of women and children, seemingly absent in the Pink City. Indeed, Indian children had been a constant joy throughout our trip in India. Always smiling, always curious and always keen to show off their English, they never failed to bestow us with happiness.

Here, the children formed part of what seemed on the surface to be a more complete community. As we walked towards the impressive clock tower, centre point of the bustling market and of Jodhpur itself, we were surrounded by scores of men, women,children, cows, horses, mopeds and autorickshaws going about their daily business. And moving beyond the wide expanse of busy market stalls, we were exposed to more of what comprises daily life in Jodhpur. Down long, winding, indistinguishable narrow alleys we saw children running (from school, to their friends,to play cricket, for no apparent reason), men working and men doing nothing, women roaming with other women, and line after line of barbers, electrical hardware shops, carpet stalls, chemists and street vendors. Unsurprisingly we got lost in this web of Jodhpurian life but it didn't really matter. We were enjoying what Brendan Rogers might have called the character of the place.

On our only full day in Jodhpur we visited its Fort, the best I'd seen on our route in the North. Used in The Dark Knight Rises, it boasted imposing gateways and an impressive, dusky stone structure. But more than that, as well as an interesting and well organised exhibition, it provided some great views of the blue city.

Unfortunately our day was cut short by Alice's Skype two and a half hour Skype interview that took place in the afternoon. So it was a delicious dinner on a renowned roof top terrace restaurant, thanks to the guys at Lonely Planet, and off to bed with Jaisalmer in our sights.