The journey to Krabi from Karon beach began bright and early.
We somehow mustered up the will power for a morning beach run, despite the already scorching temps and the fact that neither of us are really the barefooted running types. 20 minutes into the run and my feet had already begun to blister, at this point we decided that jumping into overwhelmingly inviting ocean was a much more suitable option.
After the cool off, we made our way back to the hostel to pack up our belongings and begin our journey to Krabi. We read that there is a local bus that runs through Karon beach and goes directly to Phuket town for 30 Baht p/p. We hauled our packs to the side of the main road and after about 15 minutes and a refreshing ice cold young coconut juice from the street stand, we managed to flag down a bus and jump on as it clambered up the road.
The bus, which was more like a covered pick up truck than a bus, was very basic to say the least. It had three long benches, one on either side and another running down the middle. The engine screeched and sounded as if it were ready to explode as we topped out at apprx 40 kph up a Phuket hillside. After about 45 minutes we were inconveniently dropped in the middle of town, apprx. 8 kilometers from the bus station where we he agreed to drop us. Lucky for us, the driver's brother or cousin or perhaps good mate was there to take our 150 Baht for the additional ride to the Phuket bus station.
Upon arrival two things were certain, we were both rather hungry as it was now after noon and we were in need of a toilet before getting on the 3.5 hour bus ride. When we exited the taxi, however, in a surge of chaos and confusion we were swifly herded from the cab, to the ticket line, onto the bus in a matter of seconds. No toilet and no food, this was going to be fun!
The bus was actually equipped with facilities, however, with the bumps and swerves of the bus coupled with the toilet and dangerously full bucket sloshing around next to it, I was rather confident I wouldn't make it out of that one unscathe, so decided to hold it... Where's my 'Go Girl' when I need it!?
As the stunning Phuket countryside raced by the window we were kept entertained by the musical bliss of Thai Karaoke blaring on the tv screen. For some reason or other, we were the only people attempting to singalong, It could have very well been the fact that I was beginning to lose it from my unimaginable urge to wet myself!
Eventually we made it to the Krabi Town Bus Station and after one last taxi we found our lovely and modest accomodation for the next couple of days, where I promptly found a toilet and at long last, went.
By this time it was already 4pm. We quickly snacked on a few sesame and honey crisps before locking up and heading out into town. The plan was to find a bus to drive us out to Tiger's Cave Temple, but given the fact that we had well under two hours before sunset and there was no bus in sight we negotiated with the kind Mr. Udom to bring us out to the temple, wait an hour or so for our visit, and bring us back to town for 500 Baht. Done.
We first made our way into the temple's namesake, the Tiger's Cave. Legend has the hillside used to be home to a giant tiger that would terrify the monks when its roar echoed against the hillside. Though, this Tiger was never seen, as settlement of the area led to its fleeing, the Monks still pay homage with statues and Tiger imagery. The cave was beautiful and adorned with countless Buddha statues including a huge gold Buddha and one gorgeously made out of Emerald.
The real draw of the Temple, however, was the viewpoint atop the steep mountain. So up we climbed, apprx 1,235 steep, strenuous steps to reach the top. We climbed up past giant trees and past playful monkeys swinging and jumping amongst them. Up and up and up; the climb took between 25-30 minutes. In that time we must've collectively lost at least 8lbs in water weight alone. Wow were we a couple of sweaty messes... But so, so completely, 110% worth it. The view was aw-inspiring and the candles, incense, carvings, and giant Buddha on top made it one if the most beautiful and peaceful places I have ever been. We took our time up there, snapping photos, gazing at the setting sun, meditating, zen-ing out, and feeling utterly grateful for what was before us and for experiencing this moment.
After a while, though I could've stayed there all night, we thought it would be best to make it down the mountain before it was too dark; plus we didn't want to keep Mr. Udom waiting too long. We got to the bottom almost as drenched as we were on the way up, and found our cab driver and headed back into town.
He dropped us at the markets, where we quickly found a reasonable and very popular outdoor restaurant (called Poo Dam, hehe) took in yet another delicious Thai meal, before heading back to the hostel and calling it a night.
In the morning, we were up early once again in order to rent a motorbike and drive to the Phanom Bencha National Park. The hostel's kind owner recommended a company which offered to pick us up, rent us a scooter, take us to collect our bags the next day, and organize transport to Ao Nong for 200 Baht, what a deal!!?
Though, I had my reservations renting the motorbike, as almost every person I have ever known that has done so in Thailand had ended up in the clinic with varying degrees of road rash, adorably referred to in these parts as a 'tourist tattoo', we decided it give it a go.
We travelled the 28 kilometers to the National Park without incident; in fact it seemed pretty easy and delightful from my backseat vantage point. We arrived at the park and though we had wanted to B-line directly to the waterfall, we thought it best to earn it first with a 750 meter hike to the viewpoint and reward ourselves after. This 750 meters was probably the worst calculated trail I have ever been on, as it was more like 2 km (4 km roundtrip) entirely up a mountainous jungle. The trail was steep, scarcely marked, and down right savage, thankfully we had the assistance of two lovely guide dogs that joined us on our journey. One of the dogs, an Asiatic Wild Dog aka Dingo, led us up the trail. She waited for us during our many breaks and never went too far ahead. The other dog was equally adorable and made sure to stay right behind us as if to protect us. It wasn't too long before we named them and I was begging Adrian to let me take em "home". Our leader was Bindi, as she was obviously Australian, and she was the adventurous leader type, and the other was Terrence (as in Terrence the Tortoise) because he always lagged in behind us. They stayed with us all the way to the viewpoint, however, on our way to check out the waterfall from high above they raced ahead. It wasn't 2 minutes before we heard growling, barking, and the howlings of a pretty fierce dogfight. I think Bindi got into some trouble, because we never did see her again. :(
The whole hike took us about an hour and a half, and after making our way back down the mountain we were definitely ready to get into that waterfall. We hiked up to the third or forth tier of the eleven tier waterfall and joined the half dozen other travels bathing, splashing, playing and finding their inner child in the crisp refreshing falling water and pools. It's amazing how soaking and playing in waterfalls never gets old. The immense power of the rushing water falling upon your head always has the same effect, you just can't help but laugh!
We stayed at the waterfall for nearly an hour. Jumping in and out of the water several times, but eventually we had to tear ourselves away and head back to town.
We took a shower and after a much needed A/C session we headed out to the night markets of Krabi Town. What a treat it was to take in all the sights, sounds, and interesting aromas of exotic foods cooking at every turn. We settled in for a couple of deliciously spicy dishes and coconut and corn for dessert. Yum!
We walked up and down the stalls staring wide-eyed at all the food, drink , and merchandise on display; all sorts of fish products, bugs, curries, stir-fries, satays, and various interesting looking desserts. Adrian even sampled honey covered maggots! Not terribly bad from the look on his face although I'm not sure he enjoyed the sensation of bugs getting caught in his teeth.
After we saw all we needed to, we walked the 15 minutes back to the hostel for our night's rest.
In order to take full advantage of our newly acquired wheelsnand the two liters of petrol we bought, we arose with the sun at 6 a.m. and set out on the open Thai roads. The cool breeze of the morning along with the vacant streets, made for a pleasant ride.
We drove out to the water, and took in a geological wonder, a 75 million year old shell cemetery. Just three like it in the world... Thailand, Japan, and "the state of Chicago" according to the posted sign. What a site!
After standing in aw for almost 20 seconds we grabbed a cold, sugary, iced coffee-ish drink and hopped back on the hog.
On the way back to the hostel we stopped through Ao Nong to find our next destination. Finally, we returned the bikes, grabbed our bags, and hopped on the Bus to Ao Nong for some long overdue Beach Time!!