November 13-20, 2009- La Alberca, ES- Pueblo Ingles
I distinctly remember many of the conversations that I had about Pueblo Ingles before leaving for this trip. When asked I would say, "I am going to be speaking English to Spanish natives and in return I get to visit a beautiful, remote destination in Spain, with free room and food"- an explanation which was met with faces of equal parts question and concern- it sounded too good to be true for even my own ears. I had no idea what was involved or how my day would be spent, so I am sure that In the back of their minds and maybe even mine, there were thoughts of whether I might be taken into Spanish slave labor, organ donation, or worse, arranged marriage!
But alas, I am happy to report that with my body and single status intact, Pueblo Ingles was an absolutely, meant-to-be part of this adventure; the experience was more of a blessing than I could ever put to words. I met people who taught me true Spanish culture, people who made me feel I was not alone in my life course, people who made me laugh and dance my ass off.
We got on the bus early Friday morning, asked to sit Anglo/Spaniard in our seats, there was no learning curve, the experience just began! I found a place next to Nuria, a teacher from Barcelona, who told me about her family, culture and travels to France and beyond! There were pauses, there was frustration for us both as we tried to find the words to communicate and explain our thoughts, but I was so amazed by her life experience, wisdom, and bravery to commit herself to speaking a non-native language for a whole week. My first one-to-one conversation was incredible, but there was 100 hours of English speaking to go- someone pass the water, please.
When we pulled up to the place that would be our home for the next week, I think we all shared the same look of awe on our faces. Surely the bus had made a wrong turn, could this be it? The mountains in the backdrop dotted with the colors of fall, the rows of quaint Spanish villas where we would lay our heads at night, it was accommodation that would never have made the budget for this trip, that's for sure!
"HELLO, HELLO, HELLO!", was our welcome from MC for the week, Amelia, who would keep us on track for serious talking and serious merriment all week- I knew I was in good hands with a Kiwi.
We went in for our first lunch together, sitting Spaniard, Anglo, Spaniard, Anglo- a pattern we would later do in our sleep. Served a three course meal for lunch as we would be for every lunch and dinner and able to consume as much red wine as could be stomached! I prepared myself to store food like a squirrel, surely this stomach could stretch, it was time to put on some weight for the long months ahead!
Days passed too quickly with recurring events scheduled each day, socializing at night and village outings in between. By the end of Pueblo Ingles, we had a one-on-one hour long conversation with each Spaniard, we had simulated conference calls, we had shared personal phone conversations and we had watched and preformed in presentations and skits made by both Anglos and Spaniards. We had taught them the electric slide, we had learned the Spanish slide. They showed us the Spanish traditions of kalmata and la bota, among others- we discovered through them a culture that knows how to be hospitable, and how to drink with class. I learned all about pig, a food the people of the Salamanca region know better than anyone in the world, and watched by friends consume as much of the porker as possible- not an ounce of it is wasted. It is with great respect to the Spanish tradition, but with a less than willing palette, that I report to all who were hopeful of my conversion- the oinker did not appeal to me, I am still a vegetarian.
Many days we ventured in to the nearby village of La Alberca, only a 15 minute walk from our abode. I actually saw a man riding on a donkey in this well-preserved medieval Spanish village. Named a Spanish historical monument, this was a setting straight out of Don Quixote- so authentic and maintained, and for once, not ruined by the McDonaldization of the world- just a small slice of peace, quiet and cobblestone streets.
In the town you won't find blaring advertisement and traffic, you will, however, find the much talked about village celebrity- the pig. Every year, a pig is fattened for several months, fed by locals during the day and taken into homes at night for meals and rest, this pig is later raffled off in the Spring to a lucky family who will live off it for years I bet! Oh what a life! The pig is sacred to La Alberca, so much so that its statue is immortalized next to the cross outside the main church.
Legend has it that if you touch the testicles of the pig statue (yes, I said testicles and, yes, the statue had testicles) you will be pregnant in 9 months! Well, I wasn't planning on getting any action on this trip so of course I tried it, surly this is a La Alberca legend didn't apply to me? But if by some immaculate pig-ception I do have a little oinker 9 months from now, I'd guess my mom would be happy for her first little swine.
So what a week, with only one minor damper, a little pesky problem called "the flu". No one died, so I assume, despite the diet and pig-centric society, it was not of the swine influence. It did keep many under the weather, and even I, the night-owl able person I am, began to feel the effects of our full days and fun nights by the end of the experience- a good thing for me that it was only one week!
What I will take with me most is the persons that I came to know more intimately than expected. Norma, who in March would leave her job and life to live in Thailand- hmmm that sounds familiar. Karen, my dear Canadian friend who shares my independence, travel spirit and sarcasm. Marta, who paid her way into the program with a genuine desire to learn our language- so sweet and seemingly quiet- but with so much life bubbling under the surface. Jay, my movie-quoting partner-in-crime, who frequently teased me for my Michigan accent but could always be counted on for a good conversation over a walk. Jose and his, "It is possible", Jose Maria and his unending energy and smile. Kristen, the most level-headed, lovely psychiatrist I have ever met (with a singing voice to boot!)…..and the list could go on and on.
On the bus home I look back at the experience and wonder if I will ever do it again. I want to because it was so amazing, I don't want to because it was so amazing. Its like a first love- experiences after might be even better- but will never hit that untouchable place in your heart. We will see what is to come, and what of this beautiful experience will continue to remain.
Cheers,
Emily