Cordoba, ES- November 26-27, 2009
At first glance I remember not being impressed with Cordoba. The bus station was in a commercial area- I thought I had landed myself in just another Grand Rapids, Michigan- too big to have much charm, too small to have much culture. I took the bus in to town and felt more of the same- what was the big hype about this place? I did have to admit, however, that it was nice to see sunshine, palm and orange trees- sure signs that I had finally made my way to a warmer climate.
Arriving at the friendly, clean and colorful Backpackers Terrace, I was given an 8 person dorm room all to myself and literally had the run of the place (kitchen, internet, etc) as I was one of the few people staying that night! As was the case with most places I've traveled, the winter season is low season, which most of the time means more construction and repair at all major tourist sites- but it also less tourists and lines!
I ventured out to get my bearings and to seek out the attractions I would visit the following day (the nice person at the front desk told me that the not-so-cheap cathedral is free from 8-10:30 in the mornings- a small sacrifice of sleep for an awesome sight). I found the two main stops just a short walk from my quarters- the Cathedral of Cordoba and the Alcazar de los Reyes. These were impressive structures- Cordoba was starting to grow on me. I hit the roman bridge before making my way through the winding streets, happily loosing my way from little square to little square in La Juderia (the Jewish Quarter). The welcoming orange trees, the vibrant yellow abodes and crisp white washed villas, the character of the cobblestone- I couldn't help but smile. The modern part was just a small piece of the puzzle- this area was the true gem- the hidden secret behind old castle walls- I thought to myself that I could live here for awhile.
As darkness started to settle in, I made my way to the modern Cordoba for food and ambled along the avenue of fountains for a sparkling night stroll before heading back to my little village oasis. I approach the cathedral, a giant amongst the others and found it at its most stunning- bathed in moonlight the golden doors cast an amazing glow. I saw a professional taking pictures and knew I had found a Kodak moment.
Feeling so blessed to have witnessed the awe of Cordoba by night, I return to my quarters for a Thanksgiving Feast- baked beans and a beer from the vending machine (why don't we allow this in the States?). Skyping with my family across the other side of the ocean made me feel connected and loved- what an amazingly lucky individual I am.
The Cathedral of Cordoba was my first stop the next day, the oldest cathedral in Spain, it looks like a mosque from the outside but functions as a Christian church- a fascinating piece of history, a marvel of architecture to behold. Dating back from 785 AD it is said to be the most important Islamic monument in the Western World, but in 1236, King Ferdinand lll conquered Cordoba and the Christian Reformation began, including purification and the construction of the main chapel on the grounds. Contrary to most takeovers, the mosque was not destroyed in the process and still remains, like a fortress protecting the sacred contents held within. It is a magical place, a harmonic melding of two faiths that creates a powerful spiritual aura- captivating to the eye and soul. As I roamed the corridors that morning, the sounds of mass wafted through the pillars and engulfed me in a mystical awe. I felt connected, tranquil and at peace.
The calming ambiance of the cathedral made for a smooth transition to my next destination, Alcazar de Los Reyes. The castle itself was nothing special but strolling through the gardens was a treat for the eyes and the senses. Babbling fountains, rose bushes and regal statues made for a picturesque garden scene, the ideal landscape for my last few hours in Cordoba.
I had fallen for Cordoba, completely charmed by its orange tree lined cobble stone streets and beautifully homogenized architecture. If all of the south was this enthralling, I knew I was in for an amazing couple of weeks.
Cheers,
Emily