I love Arequipa. I can't place my finger on it, but there is something magical about this place. I arrived to the hostel in the early evening and went out for a walk to the main plaza and cathedral. It was not quite dark, the square was lit up and it was gorgeous. I had originally gone out looking for vegetables to cook up a pasta sauce. Fruit I could find everywhere - on that note it is really exciting to see an abundance of fresh fruit, not just rubbish apples ...

I came to Puno on a whim. I hadn't read anything about it, heard of it or heard other travelers mention it. In Copacabana most of the buses were to La Paz, where I had already been or to Cuzco, which I don't want to go quite yet. I saw a sign for Peruvian destinations including Puno, only a 3 hour trip. Sold. Well Puno turned out to be a bit of a bust. It's not a terrible place or anything. If you don't want to visit the islands on Lake Titicaca, which I already...