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Hi Everyone,
I know this is somewhat out of date but at least you will be reading it in order, You may recall that we travelled through the night to reach Santa Elena, it was quite a difficult journey for Franz and Dion but credit where it is due, they made it with only two stops. I know that the trip sounds a bit horrendous but believe me it was agreat experience, it's good to be outside your comfort zone, it tests you in a very positive way.. We finally stopped around 4am and having been shaken and thrown all over the place by the beautifully non-tarmaced roads of Venezuela, I was ready for the 'bush loo'. Exiting the truck with the necessary tools was the easy part. looking for the right spot was not so easy. I wandered up the road a little and was at first amazed at the sight of thousands, literally thousands of fire flies lighting up the nearby bush. If you've not seen one of these little marvels, they have tails which light up due to a chemical released within which gives the appearance of thousands of little L.E.D.'s floating around. This in itself did not deter me, what put me off, or at least changed my mind, was about six bloody great hounds running loose which I had unfortunately disturbed. 2 came running at me and I was glad that I had my head torch which I turned on and made them hesitate and turn away.. However, there was no-way that I was going to offer them a soft option by doing anything other than getting back on the truck. Nature could wait, i didn't need another Rabies jab!
We arrived at Santa Elena the next day and stayed at the Backpackers Hostel. The accommodation is basic but adequate and was also 3 to a room.
There was no turning back now, I had read about the horrors of the climb so it was now just a question of getting on with it as best I could. I had originally thought I would get away with with my day pack but that soon changed when I discovered that the weather was going to change from scorrching hot to potentially freezing cold at the top. It was well into the 90's in the town and we could expect far from that on the climb coupled with heavy and cold rain at the top.
As it was I took my large pack but reduced the weight by as much as possible. On Friday the 1st August we headed off. It was a 2 hour drive to the trail head where we met a lot of young, fit people, looking exhausted and even a little shell shocked, it was just a tad disturbing!
To compound the situation we were on a time limit. The trek normally takes 6 days but due to our schedule we had to complete it in five, 2 up, 1 at the top, and 2 down. We headed off and it was quickly apparent that I was to adopt the position of 'tail end charlie' which, frankly, I was quite comfortable with. It was hot but going to rain, and so it did. Not heavilly, but enough. As soon as it cleared up off came the ponchos and jackets, out came the sun and I was as wet as if it was raining! This continued for the next 12 kilometers until we reached our first camp, but we had to cross 2 swollen rivers before we could set up camp and tents. The 1st river was negotiated in socks, the second was a different matter and resulted in us wearing swimming costumes and going hand over hand along a rope, strung from one bank to another against a fast flowing river. It was frankly the highlight of my day!
The camp was a short way further on but the light was fading and we were quickly plunged into total darkness. We had a good group of sherpas with us who made a great meal and provided hot coffee and fruit juices.
I had done alright but was not looking forward to the folowing day.
Sat 2nd August, This was a two stage day, A morning trek to the Base Camp where under normal circumstances we would have stopped, and then a massive climb to the top in the afternoon.
The morning was bad enough, very steep, but I was okay. We had lunch at the Base Camp and moved on. The climb was very hard for me and took 4 hours. It was quite simply the hardest thing I have ever done. If I had done it when I was younger I would have found it hard but now was quite a different matter, coupled with a heavy pack I admit that I did really suffer. It was so hot on the way up, that a point where you literally walk under a water fall, was a releif. The water comes off the top of the mountain and at the point where you walk under it , it has fallen about 400 feet. The rocks are large and very loose and constantly move under foot.
I felt very vulnerable and was pleased that Lee and Kate were just ahead of me, however, it didn't help when the rocks gave way and I nearly disappeared down the slope. Some points of the climb had to be performed on all fours and was not very dignified but I made it to the top at which point it started to pour with rain, became very cold and to add to my delight the temperature plummeted!
By the time the guide took us to our camp I was very cold indeed. I stripped off and put dry clothing on and also my gloves. I could not get warm and was feeling very sick. I managed a couple of cups of hot sweet coffee but that was it, I felt really ill. the Sherpas cooked up a wonderful meal but i could not eat it, I just felt sick with the exersion of the day. the following day I had recovered and apart from feeling a bit stiff and sore I enjoyed the day walking around the top and seeing everything there was up there. In company wit 3 of the others I had a dip in one of the 'swimming pools' which frankly are freezing but it was lovely to wash the effects of the previous day off my body.
Monday 4th August - The jouney down was the reverse of our journet to the top but this time using the opposite muscles. It was murderous. Those who know mewell, will also know that I carry an ankle injury. Unfortunately it decided to give way and set me sprawling towards the edge. Luckily a tree got in the way and apart from a badly grazed and bruised leg and very painful ankle, I was okay. The remainder of the trip down was extremely uncomfortable and I did not enjoy it at all. I did what I could for the ankle and had an ankle support, the cuts and bruises could look after themselves.
The last day I spent largly by myself but was only ten minutes behind the others at the end which I was pleased with. it showed me that I was able to treat injuries, not as effectively on myself I grant you, but I got through and pushed my personal boundaries a considerable way. The others clapped and cheered when I reached the hut, Lee had a beer for me, which I was really grateful for. He and Kate were stars on the way up and again on the way down, I shall not forget what they did, they showec thier true colours and are wonderful people. It was a major trek and I am going to bore you with a few details.
The trail head at Tok River is at 1100 mts. Gaudeuos Base Camp is at 1870 mts and the Summit is 2723 mts. That is a total climb of 1623 mts, which is just over a mile and a total distance of 49 kilometers in four days. It is certainly not easy and I was not the only one who suffered. upon arriveal back at the Tok River site we looked exactly like that initial group we had seen when we arrived., exhausted, shocked and not a litlle relieved to have made it in one piece.
The night we returned to Santa Elena the relief on everyone was clear to see, we were all very rightly, proud of our achievement. It resulted in an early supper and a very lively evening where everyoneattempted to dance on stiff legsand we all got horrendously drunk more out of relief than on purpose.
We now had achieved what we set out to, all that remained for us to complete was the trip across the Equator into Brazil and then onto Manaus which would sadly signify the end of our time together. I have become very fond of thsi group of people and will be sad to say goodbye to them and this area.
see you soon Chris
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