Another 20hr bus journey and we were in El Calafate. I will never find a journey in England long again, there is no comparison, this country is just vast. You can travel for days, barely seeing a soul, before hitting a town, which still isn't very big! Our hostel here was lovely with incredibly friendly staff and beautiful backdrop of mountains and lagoons. El Calafate itself was brand knew. It looks like it had just been put up, in the middle of waste, barren land. And, like most of the towns here in south America, has its packs of stray dogs - the local dogs that wonder around as, where and when they please, and all the local people know them, and they are ultra intelligent. They have no problem crossing busy roads. And sometimes they just tag onto you and spend the day with you. If they want.

The main reason that people come here, and indeed the reason for our visit was to see the Puerto Merino Glacier. One of the only glaciers in the world that moves. We did an hours treck to see the glacier. I was one of the most bizzaar sights i've ever seen. It looked so our of place. A 30km deep field of ice tucked in between mountains, 60 metres high. It wasn't even that cold there. The ice was the most stunning blue colour and the water below a milky turquoise. The glacier creeps forwards 2 metres every day, causing huge slabs of ice to crack, break off and go thundering into the water below. It was an staggering sight and such a loud noise. the sound travelled so slowly that unless you saw the ice fall, by the time u'd heard the noise it was too late.I just sat and watched in awe for a couple of hours.