OK, so I need to cover two days here. I left Zion yesterday, which I think was Saturday the 19th. After the reasonably good dinner I'd had the night before, I decided to see on my way out if the same place made coffee during the day. As in, REAL coffee. According to the sign outside as I inched my way through a couple of miles of traffic trying to get into/through Zion, yes. They made "espresso". I swung in. And let it be known for any future Aussie coffee *****s...

I was barely on speaking terms with my knees when I left. Now I'm pretty sure they parted company with me somewhere up in Hidden Canyon. The rest of me is pretty messed up, too. According to my little nerd folder of information, I've walked something like 20km in the last 24 hours. The vast majority of it, today. I don't think I'll be able to move tomorrow. But that's OK. I'm not horse riding until Sunday. I think. I hope. The day started out briskly enough. On ...

Actually that's not entirely true. I did buy a latte from the cafe downstairs at the Hard Rock - who on my previous holiday served bearable lattes - but it was so utterly vile, I had to throw it out. Seriously, three sips in and I just couldn't take it any more. And there's no point taking it back. They don't know any different. So I set off without my beloved coffee. I knew it was going to be this way, but it still completely sucked donkey balls. Things did imp...