The next day
We are awake and tumbling down the narrow steps of our B&B ( which feel as if it is a couple of centuries old and these stairs might not last much longer ) back up those lung bursting steep alley ways to the cathedral & then grind our way up the many cathedral steps to arrive for the 7am pilgrim mass. It is a mass held everyday to bless the pilgrims and to wish them a safe journey. It is a special part of the journey starting this way as you reflect on your purpose, question your own sanity but also take heart that we are with like minded souls in the sanctuary of such a special place. The mass is of course presented in French but a lot of the responses are sung by a nun and the hymns are sung by the same nun accompanied with a guitarist. I am always surprised by the effect that music has on me in different situations. Sitting here in the early hours of the morning with the other pilgrims listening to these soothing notes that float upwards to the high vaults and then wash back over us, I am touched by the beauty of the music and the sincere words of fellowship and well wishes and soon I can feel the tears p****ng my eyes.

At the end of the mass the priest asks the pilgrims to gather around the statue of St. James and asks us to introduce ourselves and where we are heading. The majority of the group (which numbered around 30) were French, but there was one Finnish couple who were walking all the way to SdC (camping along the way) and the American couple.
The priest then introduces a beautiful gesture where he invites us to participate if we would like. The idea was to write a prayer that was then put aside for the following pilgrims in the future and in return we were invited to take a prayer (out of the language category that you were familiar with) and you would carry that prayer and support it as you walked. ( without being too sacreligious I was hoping that I didn't pick up a prayer where the owner was asking The Melbourne Storm to win the NRL) I love this feeling that I am taking along some one else's thoughts - an anonymous person who I will never meet but who will walk alongside me and be my companion for the next 6 weeks or so. In turn my prayer will walk with another anonymous person on their journey. The Finnish couple are not surprised that they need to make a new language category and content themselves carrying an English written one in return.

Our day is then spent visiting fascinating sights of Le Puy such as Our Lady of France - an impressive 16 meter statue of the Madonna and child built entirely out of 213 cannons ( who has that many cannons?? ) it was apparently built after the Crimean war and towers over the town on one of the highest volcanic pinnacles.
Not to be outdone by that climbing feat we set off for another pinnacle climb which hauled us up some 220 steps to the Chapel of St Michel sitting on an 82 meter rock spire (and yes there was a defibrillator at the top- this time in an obvious spot) This chapel is not so old being built in 910 AD in honour of one of Le Puy's bishops who had returned from his Camino to Santiago de Compestella. The views are impressive and I peer down below and watch a gentleman tending his market garden as the sounds of a nearby school send the sounds of children playing in the playground ricocheting around the rock walls. It always amuses me how the sounds of children playing are not bound by any language- it is a universal sound of happiness.

I have to recount this sight that greeted me as we wandered back down the side streets. A French gentleman came out of the boulangerie with his bread stick all wrapped in paper- a normal sight you say but it is what happens next amuses, he bends down & places the baguette between his dogs teeth which clamps down to secure its location and off they trot. I watch in amazement as they move away and then observe how they stop at the corner, the wrapped baguette is removed, turned over & placed back into the mouth- maybe an attempt to spread the drool.

We are excited about our evening as we are catching up with friends that we have not seen for many years. Malcolm is an Aussie married to Christianne who is French. They once lived in Australia for years but have now returned to Avignon France to live. They have made a special effort to see us and driven 4 hours from their home for dinner. Some highlights of the dinner- seeing one of the customers being escorted to her table along side her companion- a four legged bull dog, who appears to be suffering an asthmatic attack. No one turned their head as they calmly made their way to their table. Another delight of the evening is the arrival of a huge trolley of cheese being wheeled next to us and the young waiter with a very solemn air slicing off the selected pieces of different cheeses- citing names I can only imagine he was telling. A stroll after dinner to settle the stomach was rewarded by the monuments of the town being treated to a light show- not quite like Vivid but our 910AD chapel looked superb with dragons climbing it's walls.
We have climbed the cathedral stairs five times today now- I think it is time to leave Le Puy and climb some more natural challenges - some French hills.
PS - apologies re the sideway photo- photos take forever to upload & it appears that some get turned around- I haven't the energy to keep searching for a shot that will be the correct position.
PPS - well I keep writing long entries and the blog has not been rejecting this time so looks like I don't have to split the enties- good news for you readers I'm sure as it would be too confusing. The ambience of the bar I am sitting in allows for rambling dialogue.