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After some 38 hours two flights, two train trips and one bus trip we stumbled into Le Puy. Such a delightful town greets us- it is bathed in sunlight and the cobbled streets are bustling with the activities of a town that obviously enjoys it beauty and keen to share it with all. The local specialty is the production of lace and there are many shops lining the narrow streets showcasing this intricate craft to all who take the time to admire. The infamous lentils are also heavily promoted and yes we end up having them for dinner - lasagne with trout & lentils ( an interesting combination but it worked)
In order not to succumb to the jet lag we hit the streets ( it's now the afternoon) and keep walking around to get our bearings but also to procure our new credential. This is the paper that records your journey and is necessary to be produced once you get to Santiago de Compestella in order to get your certificate. We don't require the certificate this time as we are not walking all the way to Santiago de Compestella but it will be nice to have the record of our steps with the official stamps reflecting our stops.
The town is built on volcanic rock and the visit to the cathedral is up a steep street laid with a pattern of different volcanic rock that makes walking difficult. Once you have mastered the road you then have a huge central stairway that goes forever to enter the cathedral. I can't see the defibrillator anywhere but I'm sure they have one hidden in an alcove. Icant help but wonder how the little old ladies get to their Sunday mass- dealing with the many many steep stairs and rounded stones on the road - maybe there is a small chapel hidden down in the town for the not so young legged attendees
Our visit at the Pilgrims office co-insides with another George coming in at the same time. He is from the cathedral & the confraternity of St James and issues a warm welcome to join other pilgrims for a drink this evening. Never one to be shy to join in a drink and enjoy the comaraderie of the Camino we joined up with an American couple who had already walked from Geneva & were walking to Pamplona,
Taken under the arm of new George, along with another fellow (we miss his name) who has walked most Caminos averaging 45kms a day. It is a lively happy hour as we are entertained by their stories. We are still unclear whether George was a priest or a lay person but he seemed to have the run of the church and after our drinks we are ushered into areas of the cathedral that appear to be the bowels of this impressive building to show the original altar which is overseen by a flurry of pigeons. Roman remnants are also tucked down here below the human activity above (who are oblivious of the history below their feet.) Back upstairs we are taken past the main altar and I stand in awe at the sight of the beauty of the black faced Virgin Mary overseeing the humble followers in front of her. New friend George explains the possible reasons behind the black virgin ( he says it could be the type of wood, or perhaps the darkening over time from the candle flames) We note that both the hands of baby Jesus and Mary are both white so these two theories don't seem to work.
I receive my first French greeting/farewell 3 step kiss from new George as we say our goodbyes.
- comments
George Hodgson The chap we met but did not get his name is not younger than us, yet he completed The Camino from Le Puy to Santiago de Compostela last year in 45 days. Not bad, when you consider that it is a journey of 1581 kilometres! He does have one advantage - not an ounce of fat!
Kate What a wonderful first day. You packed a lot in as usual. Excited to be sharing your journey guys. I shall look forward to reading it every morning with my breakfast. We are just home from our overseas trip. Italy was just wonderful . Now we are trying to beat the jet lag. Weather is beautiful so that should help. Au revoir. X
Anne Many thanks Kate- I apologise ahead of time if I don't have a posting ready in time for your breakfast - things are a little less predictable in rural France. Your Italian trip sounds delightful- xx
Kate McNabb No worries Anne. I won't expect to read it every day with brekkie but it's much more enjoyable reading your blog than watching the World News at present. Safe and enjoyable travels. X
Joanne Such beautiful writing and description of Le Puy. You make it come alive for me.