Day 11 Golinhac to Conques

We are often remarking that when things appear to be going especially tough or we are struggling, there appears a sign, a picnic table to take a rest, a nice tree with mossy underfoot to achieve a new boost of energy, the kind people who live alongside the chemin who provide refreshments and/or shelter, Eau potable to refill our bottles or meeting an individual.

Both George and I had these experiences today.

For George it was going to be a tough day as his knee was giving him grief and there was going to be a lot of extremely steep descents with rocks that he was going to overcome. His angel appeared at just the right time- another walker who was from Madrid and who was walking with several French and a German walker. Once he realised he could 'chew the fat' in his native tongue with Javier and sort out the problems of the world off they both went for three hours. I was able to walk at my own rate and even though they were out of sight I was able to track their presence by the burble of animated conversation that I could hear floating across the paddocks. Before he knew it Javier had delivered George down the rough track without having to think too much of his extremities and the angst that they were suffering.

Javier was also excellent on providing a selection of different exercises to stretch various parts of the body and instructed us that we should end our day by doing them. He was like a magician as out of his bag he produced a tube of Spanish anti inflammatory cream for the knee and with a barter of chocolate the deal was completed. We now look forward to finding a pharmacy that may stock this magic product.

We are hearing the comment from a lot of people that they too are being troubled by their knees. I think someone with magic knee products could do a roaring trade setting themselves up on this route at regular intervals.

For me my angel came with the arrival of a young German couple. The young lass does not speak French and I think was getting lonely, so being able to chat to another woman was her a nice respite. She was also excited to be able to practice her English. With George totally absorbed in Espagnol it was nice for me to have my own distraction, especially as I too have the challenge of this steep descent into Conques. Forgive me if you tire of hearing about the different people we meet and their stories but it is these.little glimpses and greetings that makes the chemin special.

The young couple's story is that they have left their jobs, they have walked throughout Norway and were now on the chemin to walk through France, then Spain and finally to Portugal. They are carrying also all their camping gear and walk at a fast rate. I ask them about their fitness and how long did it take for them to reach this level of fitness- their answer of three weeks gives me hope and also helps explain that I' m not even half way there yet. A few more hills are required.

I bid them farewell as the Spanish chatter had grown silent and I don't want to be too far away in case I need to walk back again. Luckily for me I had a huge autumn tree of incredible array of varying colours of oranges, reds and yellows to entertain me until the lads came down the hill. We are all in awe of walking into Conques, another town on the UNESCO's world heritage list. The focus of the town is the Romanesque abbey church of Sainte-Foy (Saint Faith) which had its original monastery built in the eight century. Above the main doors is a Romanesque carving of the Last Supper set in the tympanum. I am always intrigued how the sculptors with their basic utensils in those days were able to construct such a work of beauty.

Conques is considered a medieval village with the house's timbered supports still jutting out over the streets around their stone surrounds. The wooden shutter of our chamber nearly crumbles in my hand as I reach out to open it- I'm wondering if it's protected by the French National Trust and hence can't be altered or the owner finds it too difficult (too expensive) but I'm sure this apparatus will collapse in the not too distant future and I would hate to be the pedestrian below. There are several of these buildings available for sale- and I wonder if and when they would be bought. Here is your chance of living in an ancient medieval town - you would certainly get fit.

The small narrow steep roads are made of smooth stones in the middle and armed with stones that lie horizontal to that on both sides. This gives the walker somewhat a grip as you walk down but I don't know how it would be in the rain or the snow. Only a few cars venture along this treacherous paths and On the next day we witness the gorging of three large tourist buses delivering their contents at the top of the hill as they were unable to get down any lower. It was a struggle for many of those occupants to navigate the route. I was left wondering how long it took them to climb back out again after their visit.

Our French friends are ending their journey here at Conques but they decide to have dinner in the town as many of the people we have been walking with have made Conques a meeting point for a farewell and a catch up. It is delightful to be members of such a large family. I can see that even though they are proud of their achievements they are also sad that these days of the chemin are over. There is much chatter and taking of photos.