We headed due West out of Berlin, stopping for the night at this very clean and smart business hotel in Magdeburg. Its a strange town, utterly rebuilt since unification, but at the same time, one has a deep foreboding that in the process of rebuilding, somehow any soul the place had, has disappeared along with the rubble of the GDR. We dined in the one bar/bistro we could find and we were served with very nice food by a very nice waitress who strangely offered us the insight that she wasn't very happy here, but she didn't think anyone else was either...