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We had really enjoyed our Tioman Island trip and our taste of Thailand on the cruise so when we were thinking of a trip to take in Heather's birthday these were high considerations. Then having both recently read 'The Beach' it seemed that Ko Samui filled the bill comfortably. An island in the South China Sea, a part of Thailand, and the setting for a high adventure book, perfect.
The movie 'the beach' was filmed mostly at Phi Phi island on the west side of Thailand . However the setting for the book was inspired by the Ang Thong Island Group National Park bordering the Thai Islands of Ko Samui and Ko Pha-ngan on the east side in the South China Sea. The book is quite factual in its use of the location and adds a sort of de ja vu as one travels around the area. Ko Pha-ngan is also infamous for a very different reason as being the home of the Full Moon Party which commenced in 1989 and is now a must do on most backpacker calanders.
So we arrived in Ko Samui keen for a total wind down holiday, this was to be a do nothing time, like how busy can you be on an island? Our first objective was to get settled into our digs the Laguna beach resort. Our room was pretty good, perched with its own little balcony above the pool and while we discovered later that there were some lovely little bungalows more beach side, we were happy (besides probably cost heaps more). Our next discovery was that we should have learned German before we came, from observation it appeared we were the only non German speakers and that included the Thais. Fortunately most also spoke English if directly addressed. Probably the best discovery was that the dining thatched hut was right on the waters edge, and as breakfast was included in our tab we made sure we were down on the beach every morning and we also had a few sunset evening meals there.
On our way to Ko Samui a fellow traveler had told us of a secret beach not far from Laguna only occasionally used by a few locals and was the typical South Pacific beach one conjured up when sweltering back in inland Oz. Given we liked the idea of the freedom provided by a little used beach we set off (a little skeptically) in search. We followed the rough directions and surprisingly came upon the beach and it was indeed perfect but disappointingly scattered with refuse. So the next day before setting out to "our beach" we bought some garbage bags and spent our first day cleaning up the beach (luckily it is fairly small) we then lugged the bags down the beach path to the road near some houses and hoped there was some sort of rubbish collection service. For the next fortnight we spent quite a few days enjoying the spot but when it was time to leave we noted the bags were still where we left them.
Our next challenge was to set off for a visit to The Ang Thong NP by sailboat, the trip included a visit to the fully enclosed sea connected lake (Ko Sam Sao) and a fantastic island beach (Mae Ko) which as stated above inspired the book 'the beach'. This was a great experience. We also stopped for a coral snorkel and while not as good as home was a pleasant time.
The following day we took a speed boat trip to Ko Pha-ngan and while the full moon party was not on we could see the attraction that the island held, and prices and accommodation were more geared to the back packer market. When we arrived the main beach was empty however by lunch time it was starting to fill and was packed by the arvo.
Given we had now converted our do nothing holiday to a 3 or 4 Km walk to our beach and tours to outer islands we decided we may as well sign up for a across island 4WD tour. This turned out to be quite an adventure too. The trip took us to Phallic rock where one did not have to stretch the imagination too much, a coconut farm where monkeys retrieved coconuts and were provided with the top cut off and a straw, a rubber farm visit and finally to the top of the island on a very rough track. We had good company on the tour which helped make it great fun.
We were however finding the time to also enjoy our favourite Thai activity of massage. For about $8 Oz one could enjoy a variety of massage services from the traditional beach massage to foot only, full body oil or aroma massage etc down the street. On one occasion we also tried a full massage experience where one visits a open sided bungalow on stilts where conversation is frowned on, so one can concentrate just on the masseuses hands. The experience while quite expensive is unique but worth it as a once off. We also enjoyed the vibrancy of the night life in Laguna, the little girly bars (some of them not girls!), the fish restaurants and while sometimes also annoying, the Thai boxing extravaganza.
All the while we kept an eye out for something special to do for Heather's birthday. We were having a chat with the resorts receptionist when the birthday subject came up. The next day she announced her family lived on a small neighboring island and (for a price) she would arrange an all inclusive visit. So on Heather's birthday we found our selves aboard a kind of long boat,with a motor attached to a pole, heading to Ko Tan. The trip over was uneventful and we had a wonderful time wandering the island, meeting the chief and being fed to excess complete with birthday cake. After staying the night we again boarded a similar boat to head back to Ko Samui. Unfortunately the trip back was interrupted by the motor stopping. A quick look around the boat revealed no life jackets and a fervent glance revealed no sign of immediate land or help. The skipper however assured us that the current will take us to Ko Samui eventually. After some time adrift another boat did come along and (for a price) agreed to tow us to our destination. It was in all a great experience.
Any remaining time if not at OUR beach was spent on a visit to the giant gold Buddha and beaches used for an amazing array of half moon and all sorts of other moon parties trying to cash in on the infamous full moon party on Ko Pha-ngan but never being in the hunt. Ko Samui is a very safe destination and we found it to be a worthwhile spot for any age to enjoy.
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