Hi,

Time to leave Argentina and head for Chile and one of the world's most stunning geographical features: Torres Del Paine National Park.

Monday 26th November

The day started at 0400 as we caught the early bus from Ushuaia trying to reach Puerto Natales in Chile via Punta Arenas. The winds were ferocious on the day. Typical of Patagonia and more about that later...

Travelling by bus we now saw a lot more of the country and the pampas we passed through had a lot more grass than on dusty Peninsula Valdes. It was easy to imagine a Scottish shepherd being quite at home here. The bus took what seemed like ages to negotiate both border posts. Ah well, some stamps in the passport for a change. Due to the high winds our ferry was held up and I lost my specs from the top of my head as I exited the bus. I now understand that I really need a spare pair! To compound matters I still had my heavy head cold and therefore had to travel in a nonchalant manner with big bits of tissue stuffed up both nostrils.

W e spent the night in Punta Arenas (pop. 180,000) arriving very late and leaving early. I know that there are many Scottish connections in this place but we just didn't have the time to investigate. A matter of some regret.

Tuesday 27th November

Had a pleasant three hour journey which I spent sitting beside a Latvian man in his 60s. He had been up Mount Ararat and proved an interesting travelling companion with tales of travel within the old Soviet Union. (Before you could get out!) After a while we began to feel the excitement rising as the snow capped mountains rose up on our left hand side. We reached Puerto Natales (pop. 20,000) a small tourist based town which is a jumping off place for the park. After completing a food shop and leaving some of our luggage at the hostel we caught a bus in the early afternoon to take us to Torres. The views en route were stunning, with lots of guanaco, rheas and the odd vulture circling. At the park we crossed Lake Pehoe in a catamaran. The colour of the water was a hazy blue and the views of the mountains just got better and better. Check out the photos.

Set up camp under the mountains and made dinner. The gas ran out but we got the meal cooked eventually. This was my first time camping since 1978 when I was in Devon and Cornwall with Donald and John Gillies! You will see from the photos we were camping in a stunning location on the shores of Lago Pehoe under the face of Cerro Paine Grande (3248m).

Wednesday 28th November - Trek 1

Up at 0600! Chocolate porridge with sliced banana for breakfast. A first! Energy giving. Our plan was to trek the 'W'. This is a route which goes up three valleys and along the southern face of the massif. It usually takes 4 to 5 days to complete.

Carrying just a day pack between us we started off in beautiful weather. We first passed through areas devastated by the fire started by a traveller in December 2011. Beautiful forests had been devastated. You could still smell the burning. We first came to a small lake (Los Patos) and then walked along the side of Lago Grey. This was the first time I had ever seen icebergs, which came from the glacier in the north. They floated down the lake giving the water an unusual grey/blue colour. All the views were spectacular, blue skies, snow capped mountains, grey craggy rocks, lovely old green forests and the icebergs within the strangely different blue/grey lake. Great to be alive!

We walked 11k up to Refugio Grey and after taking water on board walked on to two different viewpoints looking at Glacier Grey. The glacier was huge and the views immense. I have never seen anything like it. Check out the pics. We headed on another 4k to the Los Guardas camp, to take a closer look at the glacier. My feet were very sore as we walked back to the camp for about 1710.. Total hiking today was about 18.5 miles taking 9.5 hours, but with a great feeling of achievement. (Hmmm what state will it leave me in tomorrow?)

Thursday 29th November - Trek 2

Another 0600 start. We spent most of the day trekking the second part of the 'W', which was a steep climb up the French Valley but again with spectacular views. Right at the top there were simply stunning landscapes all four directions. Remarkable! We had made good time so we walked 5k past where we had originally intended to camp and set up at Los Cuernos, but not before I had stuck my blistered feet in the icy waters of Lago Nordenskjold. The pain from the cold conflicted with the foot pain so I don't think I was any better off! Have tried to name the mountains in my photo album and hope I have got them right. If you know better I will not be offended so please let me know.

Friday 30th November- Trek 3

To mark Saint Andrew's Day, but mainly because we were going there anyway, we completed the third part of the 'W' trail, which took us up to the 'Torres' themselves, which provided even better views. After scrambling up to the viewpoint we eventually had enough energy to climb down to the small lake in front of the Torres. Breathtaking. I will let the photos do the talking.

It was a busy day in which we covered another 16 miles. My feet have never been so sore. All in all we hiked just over 50 miles in three days on a trail which usually takes four or five, as there are lots of elevations and rough terrain. Not bad for someone of my age but I must confess I really felt the years by the end.

Torres Del Paine must be one of the most beautiful places in all of creation. Every day was different and every day was great, with spectacular views all around. If you can get there, I cannot recommend it highly enough.

The camping was an interesting experience. I was struck by what an Australian camper said around the table one night. Based on the fact that you only have as much good as you are prepared to carry, so therefore you take an eclectic mix of lightweight food. He said it was amazing how good everything tasted after a hard days trekking. Even food you would not normally eat at home! He also said that small things like one carrier bag or a small piece of fruit which would not be important at all in everyday life seemed to have greater significance along the trail. As part of this discussion it was also noted that the experience was a great leveller and people were very willing to share food and drink with each other.

On the way back to Puerto Natales we had a brief sighting of a puma. It was so elusive however, that I didn't even have time to get the camera out. We spent the night at the hospitable Singing Lamb establishment, whose staff agreed to check the bus availability so we could move off back into Argentina at 0700.

Saturday 1st December

We had a tiring six hour journey back across the border with long queues to get your passport stamped. At 1300 we arrived in El Calafate (pop. 8,000) and were able to get a room for the weekend by a guy touting at the bus depot. We asked the hostel staff for the name of the best steak house in town as we were ready for a blow out after a week of trail food. Had a special evening at La Tablita. As all our clothes were in the laundry we weren't exactly well dressed but it was, as my dad used to say 'a most pleasant occasion.' We shared a mixed platter of Beef De Chorizo(rump steak), Lomo (fillet steak) and Patagonian lamb with side salad and grilled vegetables all washed down with a Patagonian Malbec. Chocolate mousse and espressos to finish. A good way to end this part of the trip. We were blessed by great weather and saw some of the most amazing natural wonders the planet has to offer.

Enjoy the selection of photos from this blog. I hope you will stay with me for the final journey to the Perito Moreno Glacier and Los Glaciers National park.

Until then

Murdo