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For some, Peter Jackson put New Zealand on the map. Lots of dedicated film fans are lured here to witness the epic landscape that provided a backdrop to the Lord of the Rings trilogy, but since we've been in the country we've not felt the overwhelming hobbit craze you'd expect a la Harry Potter at Universal Studios.
Sure, the guidebook might throw in a line about the different streams, lakes and mountains where various scenes were filmed, and many visitors will flock like NZ sheep to Mount Doom, or the Hobbiton Movie Set. But, it's a pleasant surprise that hobbit-botherers aren't popping up all over the place.
It was more surprising when we stumbled across the jeweller who designed and made THE ring. Nestled among a line of galleries in the centre of Nelson, a simple blue sign on the wall outside introduced Jens Hansen as the man behind the world's most famous ring.
Jens is no longer alive, but from his tiny shop and workshop his family continue to design, make and sell beautiful jewellery. Avid fans must come from all over the world to have a ring designed here, yet it somehow didn't feel touristy. We spent some time speaking to Jens' son, Halfdan, who told us a bit about the history behind the ring from the movies and showed us some of the other original designs the family team also produce.
It was a nice way to spend an hour or so, after a long drive north to Nelson from Hokitika today with Nat behind the wheel!
We made a pit stop at Brunner mine in the morning. It used to be one of several coal mines on the banks of the Grey River, and attracted lots of people to settle in the area. But, in 1896 an explosion killed all 65 miners inside and the town is now deserted.
All we could see today were the remains of the old ovens on the north side of the river, and a lovely memorial listing the names of the miners killed.
Further north, we stopped for lunch at a town called Reefton, which is famed for its early adoption of the electricity grid and street lighting... we think it speaks volumes about NZ that people here are still highly excited by the installation of electricity! It's typically small town, with mad but friendly locals. The Broadway Tearooms seemed to be picking up most of the day-time traffic, so we headed straight there in search of tea and home baked cake in a lovely rustic setting.
On to Nelson, we first stopped in at the art deco Christ Church Cathedral which lords it over the city on top of a small hill. We also browsed the inordinate number of galleries selling artsy stuff including lots of contemporary glass. We thought Mum and Dad Stallwood would love some of the designs we saw, but we didn't fancy our chances of getting glass home in one piece.
Instead we nipped to the NZ equivalent of Dixons to buy a new USB memory stick. Turns out we're taking far more photos than even we expected. So perhaps Mum and Dad Stallwood won't mind settling in for an endless slidewshow instead - it only seems fair!
Nelson is famous for its craft ales, and as luck would have it we timed our visit perfectly for a festival to celebrate this. So, we ended the day sampling one or two at a locally recommended pub to toast our last night on the beautiful South Island. The pub even let us order in a fish and chip takeaway as well... Got to love NZ hospitalilty!
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