Cold. This has to be the coldest place on Earth. Ok slight exaggeration, particularly as temperatures here in Christchurch are in the teens, but waiting for a public bus outside Christchurch Airport in shorts, t-shirts and flip flops, the chilly NZ wind caught us by surprise.

"Enjoy your holidays?" one fellow bus passenger wrapped in up in a winter jacket and scarf asked. Oh dear. We need to change.

After two buses to the city centre, we arrived at our hostel - a gorgeous collection of traditional Christchurch wooden bungalows, complete with a resident dog and cat. Maybe it was because we darted inside to keep warm, or because Christchurch looks very English, but this hostel seemed to be the most homely hostel we'd stayed so far. Our bungalow had its own front door, leading to a large hallway, a kitchen, bathroom and a couple of bedrooms/dorm rooms. There was even proper curtains and carpet. Oh, and duvets (DUVETS!) on the beds. We claimed a top bunk each, piled on a few more layers, and then headed out to explore Christchurch straight away, excited to be an another new country.

We'd already seen some of the devastation caused by the earthquakes that hit Christchurch in 2010 and 2011 on our way from the airport. Some buildings were derelict, or completely demolished, leaving large empty spaces dotted along roadsides. But there was worse to come. The CBD (ten minutes' walk from our hostel) is still completely cordoned off - two years after the last quake. No one can walk or drive through this part of the city because the few buildings within the zone are unstable, and the risk of aftershocks remains. Imagine not being able to cross through the centre of London, and the impact it would have on day to day life…

Looking through the fences that wrap around the red zone, little construction seemed to be taking place. However, we were told by staff at the hostel that hundreds of buildings have been demolished since the earthquake, with a further 100 yet to be demolished before the city can be rebuilt.

As we wandered around, we felt desperately sad for the city and the people who live here. Then we came across a beautiful little coffee shop beside the (typically English) Avon River (complete with punting!), on the opposite side of the red zone. The staff inside were cheerful and helped us understand that Christchurch is actually a city re-emerging - we came to realise this is largely down to the determination and resilience of the locals.

We were told of an area called the Re-Start, where huge shipping containers have been brightly and creatively decorated to form temporary shops, offices - even banks and post offices. It was the first retail activity in the Christchurch CBD after the 2011 earthquake. The locals are so fond of Re-Start, we predict it will still be here once the city is rebuilt around it. Apparently there was a cardboard cathedral in construction too.

Unfortunately, courts, property developers and lawyers are dragging their heels slightly when it comes to agreeing on development plans, but we're told the plans are impressive and the locals have faith in these promises. They take comfort in the fact that Christchurch has the opportunity to build something great and new out of what's happened - no matter how long it may take. We can understand their excitement.

After a lovely hot chocolate in the cafe, we had a quick peek inside the Canterbury Museum next door where we learned that traditionally Christchurch is actually the most English of all NZ cities - it certainly shows. We guess it now plans to add a modern and innovative layer to its damaged heritage heart though. The museum also had some interesting Maori galleries and had us excited to visit a Maori village later in our trip. We then headed over to explore the colourful Re-Start precinct before heading back to the hostel to cook a spaghetti bolognese supper.

After a much-needed long sleep, we headed back towards the red zone this morning and looked for the cardboard cathedral. We also visited one of the many 'gap fillers' in place where buildings once stood - such as a memorial to those who lost their lives in the 2011 earthquake. Various white chairs on the site of a fallen church now represent each of those who died in the disaster.

After that we headed to a part of the city little affected by the earthquake - the botanical gardens. It's autumn here in New Zealand, and the colours in the garden were stunning. Despite the chill, the sky was beautifully blue as we headed back to the same café we visited the day before for some delicious bacon and eggs. And, after brunch, we boarded a penguin bus to the International Antarctic Centre! Part of a huge complex built for the administration of the NZ, US, and Italian Antarctic progams, we got to see penguins, visit a 4D cinema, and the Antarctic Storm chamber, where we got a taste of -18degrees wind chill. ….And we thought it was cold outside in NZ autumn!! The highlight of the visit was definitely a Hagglund ride though - which took us over a very scary course outside. We also saw a huge plane on the runway outside, preparing to take off for the Antarctic.

Tomorrow we're heading off in a campervan to tour the rest of New Zealand so we're making the most of our normal sized beds (well, bunk beds) tonight. It's been an odd couple of days in Christchurch as we adapt to being in a new country again. Although our instinct was to feel sad for those living here in the aftermath of these earthquakes, an energetic entrepreneurial edge definitely leads life beyond disaster, making the city a very exciting to be. We'd love to come back one day and see what changes are made.