A 6am start on a Sunday? Apparently that is what it takes to go to Fraser Island, there being a need to sit watching endless videos about how to look after the fragile ecosystem of Fraser Island (basically, don't set fire to it, drive through it or smother the wildlife in plastic bags) how to deal with dingoes (if threatened, look like a tree; if attacked, apply the end of your boot to its nose at high velocity, repeatedly if necessary) and what not to do if we ever wanted to see our damage deposits again (pretty well anything).

After a quick trip to the supermarket, we headed to the ferry in convoy - 4 cars, 33 people. Having only had 15 mintues of driving the thing, I was not best pleased to be told I had to reverse a 4wd Toyota down a ramp and round a corner onto the ferry (damage deposit, anyone?). No worries in the end though, and at least we drove forward at the other side.

The convoy disintegrated within about 15 minutes of leaving the ferry, and there then followed a day of 'eccentric' map reading and pushing the car out of the sand. We've been reliably informed that Lake Wabby is very nice. Still, bbqs and camping by the beach have their charm, especially when you don't bother using the tents.

Day two was, in short, fab. Going hell-for-leather up the highway aka the beach to beat the tides, we were at Champagne Pools by 8:30 and were rewarded by reuniting with the other cars. With the tide coming in the pools were at their best, the waves crashing over the rocks in the 'champagne' effect. After a bit of a swim we headed over to Indian Head for some marine-life-spotting: whales, turtles and all the rest.

Day three started at Eli Creek, the most notable of the many freshwater creeks that run all over the beach, and a side trip to the wreck of the Maheno. We then sped back down the beach and inland to Lake Mackenzie, which was a glorious place to spend the midday. By mid afternoon though, it was time to head to the ferry terminal, stopping only to wrestle the car into 2wd, pump up the tyres and laugh as the Irish guys turned out their car looking for the key (turns out it was in the map holder). Back to Hervey Bay and, somehow, we got our full deposit back.

With a day to fill waiting for the next bus I took a trip to see some of Hervey Bay's migrating humpback whales. They were in playful mood too, so I was less annoyed at having to wait the extra day just so I could get a bus for an hour down to Rainbow Beach.