Another train, another car, and we arrive in Pushkar where, it is said, a petal fell from the lotus blossom used by Lord Brahma to defeat the demon Vajra Nabh. That petal created the lake, and pilgrims have been coming here to cleanse their sins ever since.

For tourists, the big scam is fake priests trying to charge a fortune to say a puja at the water's edge. But with the ever-useful Raj to hand, we had our own guy already waiting for us to do it. In theory, the resulting presence of a red cord tied around the wrist would evidence our having undertaken the puja, with the result that the pestering would cease.

Pushkar is the first city to really have cows roaming around. It's quite funny actually. People throw chapatis in the road for them to eat, but that makes the cow stop in the middle of the road and block the traffic.

On our first evening in Pushkar we embraced a bit of Indian culture by watching Lagaan (the only Bollywood movie to make the top 50 films to see before you die) in which the downtrodden villagers take on the British at cricket to save themselves from crippling taxes. Cricket? We didn't stand a chance.

Our second day in Pushkar was a chance to 'explore ourselves', as Raj likes to put it. Not entirely sure what he means when he says this, but we took it to mean that we should explore the town. In the afternoon we went to what is reputed to be India's only Brahma temple. It is unusually sparse, with only a few statues including the four-headed one of Brahma. What was really unusual though was that pretty well every surface was covered in dedications to the births and deaths of people's relatives. We couldn't go into the Rangji temple, though - apparently not being a Hindu is a bar to entry.

Keen to repeat last night's cultural exploits we watched another film - Snatch. OK it's not really Bollywood, but wouldn't it be improved with some singing and dancing?