Well, I wasn't blown up in Mumbai. I was woken at 5 am by the first hordes of passengers coming for their early flights. Mine was not to be until 11:30. Good job I checked though, for despite having confirmed my flight only 3 days before, it turns out Kingfisher cancelled it and had put me on a flight at 2:30 pm. Not wanting to spent any more mind-numbing hours in this hole of a terminal I convinced them to put me on the 10:10 flight - result.

The military presence at Delhi airport was startling, but it turns out they were all waiting for their luggage at the carousel (I kid ye not). The taxi ride to the hotel was, in plain language, terrifying. After all, why bother learning to drive when you can beep the horn? On the bright side, the hotel is nice enough - having a double bed and a room to myself is bliss after months of sharing dorms. I slept well this night.

My first full day in Delhi began with an Indian breakfast - not too spicy though! Spent most of the day just exploring the street markets and generally wondering if I'd done the right thing coming here (Delhi takes a bit of getting used to). In the evening I met up with the tour group (down from 12 to 6 due to the recent attacks; Aussie FO says don't go, so Aussie insurance won't be valid) and our guide, Gajraj, who took us to a nice restaurant for dinner. There, he showed us how to eat curry using only the right hand and no eating irons. It's really quite easy, just remember to wash your hands first!

For our last day in Delhi, Gajraj took us via the metro (which looks far to modern and clean to belong here) to Old Delhi, first and Chandri Chowk. Picture narrow streets, crammed with people and main electricity cables hanging just above head height and you have a vague idea of what it's like.

We visited Jama Masjid (a very impressive mosque) and the Sikh Gurudwara for a bit of religious exposure, before braving the streets of Old Delhi to see the spice markets (where even the locals cough from the haze of spicy dust). Take note - don't eat from the street stalls - too hot and very unhygenic.

We rode cycle rickshaws to the metro (people still try to sell you things while of the rickshaws!) and headed to Connaught Place. This was New Delhi, and a stark contrast in its serenity, space and general cleanliness. A bit boring really!

Now it's time to head to the train station for the next big India experience - getting the train...