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Well, we've been in Laos now for a week and we love it. It is so laid back and relaxing!! We arrived in Vientiene the capital where we spent two days, before heading North to a small town called Viang Vieng - this is basically a town built for tourists, with lots of restuarants and activities in the surrounding area. It's got a spectacular setting on a river surrounded by mountains. Unfortunately for us it rained for two days whilst we were there, so we didn't get to enjoy it much! We then moved on to Louang Phabang, a world heritage city. It's a pituresque little town set between two rivers, with endless temples. After spending a day in the town, we took a two day trekking and kayaking tour. The first day we did a 5-6 hour trek through the hill, where we stayed in a village (with no running water or electricity). By the time we got there we were totally covered in mud! It had rained the night before and on and off all day whilst we were walking. It did make the trek difficult because we were slipping and sliding everywhere, but it made it good fun!!
We still can't make up our minds about whether staying in villages is a good or bad idea. It does bring money to the villages which is needed, especially since opium farming was made illegal five years ago and there is little other way of earning money. It was not people tourism, in the same way as some of the treks - no traditional dress or peformances put on. But we had a huge meal in the evening, I'm sure more food than a family would normally have for days.
Laos is a beautiful country, but there is a huge amount of deforestation in rural areas, particularly those that were previously opium growing areas. People have turned to chopping down trees and selling the wood to the cities in order to make a living. There doesn't appear to be much regulation by the government or any attempt to replant the areas which have been cut down. Without any intervention it doesn't seem as though there will be any jungle left in Laos within a decade. It really is a very sad situation.
The next day, it was another two hour trek, and then a 3 hour kayaking trip back down the river. It really was an amazing setting. We were in a double kayak and surprise surprise we went under at the first rapid! We got thrown around and sucked under the water, but no lasting damage beyond a few bruises. It was great fun and we managed to stay in the kayak for the rest of the trip!!
We'll probably stay in Louang Phabang for another day or two and then probably head North up one of the rivers by boat.
Happy birthday to Elaine and Christian and Happy Mother's day to our Mums!!
D&S xxx
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