Monday night: the manager bought me and Vanessa back some food from the city. Then we went to bed, but it turns out the manager and some of the others returned about 11 with more food and drinks and shesha for us, but we didn't wake up, so we missed the party- oops!
Tuesday: I went for a run along the beach about 8, which was lovely! Then the dive staff made us a great breakfast and I decided to stay another day. I ended up doing a couple more dives as I had the time and they won't accept money for me staying here or all the food and drink they buy for us, so it was a pleasure to give them business! We went to 28m on the first one, which I'm not meant to on my certificate but they said I was good enough and it was really beautiful! The second one we explored a new reef area which was great! I love being under the water, it's so peaceful! Then I spent the afternoon chilling with Vanessa and the staff- someone had hacked the companies Facebook page and changed it from "camel dive centre" to "camel toe dive centre", which I found rather funny but understandably they were pissed off! In the evening, they dropped us into the town and me and Vanessa had a great meal, then later met the manager and sat smoking shesha and chilling in a bar til the early hours!
Wednesday: I had packed my bag and was all set to return to Amman, but then Vanessa and the manager persuaded me to stay another day!! So a chilled day on the beach snorkelling and eating watermelon- it's a great place to relax- feels like a real holiday! Again they made us breakfast and dinner! In the evening we went to the city and me and Vanessa walked around for a couple of hours; it was funny cos we were thirsty so bought a nice cold drink but it's disrespectful to drink/eat/smoke in public places during Ramadan as the locals can't! So we were sat in a park with our drinks on the table among lots of locals (they take loads of food and have a feast often in parks, on the beach, etc) waiting for sunset and the call to prayer so we could drink!! Haha, I couldn't do Ramadan- I was so thirsty and it'd only be an hour or so! Then we met the manager and sat smoking shesha and chilling til the early hours again. It was really nice to meet some cool people and spend a few days with them! The bars are always full of local men- you very rarely see the local women out socialising!
Thursday: me and Vanessa were both going to get buses at 10- her to Petra and me to Amman. So we said our farewells and I had over 4 hours on the bus, then got ripped off by the taxi driver who dropped me at the hostel- I'm trying a different one this time, only 6JD (£6.60) a night! I had a nap for a couple of hours- I'm trying to fit in with the locals by sleeping in the day and staying out late! I walked around the city and got some of the delicious desserts which I had to come back and eat sneakily in my room. In the evening after sunset, I went for dinner- falafel and hummus! Then sat on the hostel balcony smoking shesha, no one about really although the owner was friendly and helpful.
Friday: a German girl had arrived in my room so I spent much of the morning chatting with her- she's here doing a charitable project which was interesting. I booked my first hostel in Mumbai and started doing some research into India- my visa is for 2 months and it's almost impossible to extend. I guess I will cross to Nepal afterwards although I was looking at options for crossing to Myanmar (Burma). Monsoon season is now starting and will last for my time in India, so I didn't time things very well but I guess that being British I'm used to rain and it makes things cheaper! I went to the market and sneakily ate more of the desserts in the hostel. I printed off my visa at an Internet cafe, then sat by the amphitheatre reading and some local kids come and were chatting to me which was nice, until one of them asked to touch my boobs! I ate my last baba ganouche (aubergine dish) and falafel. In the evening, a Belgian girl was like "oh you were in Palestine- we were chatting at the hostel in Ramallah"- I genuinely didn't remember her at all! But it's funny that our paths crossed again after 3 months! Then the German invited us to see the roof top garden project she's working on and we went to one of her colleagues apartments for drinks til the early hours.
Saturday: the hostel arranged a taxi to pick me up at 7. So I was at the airport by 7.45. I can honestly say that I have really enjoyed my time in the Middle East; I felt so safe- you can walk around at night and leave your stuff- the shop sellers leave all their stock on the streets at night! The people are so welcoming and friendly! And it was especially interesting being in a Muslim country for Ramadan!
So I flew to Dubai and then only had an hour or so before my flight to Mumbai- I had to give them my Indian visa and it turns out is printed the wrong bit!! I was thinking "s***! How much will this cost? Will I miss the flight?" But the guy kindly ran off and come back with the bit I needed printed off!! Air Arabia is the middle eastern easy jet or Ryanair- so no luxuries! But it was very interesting that they recognised Ramadan and come round with free water and dates for everyone to recognise the end of the days fast as they announced again when it was over! I took a prepaid taxi to the hostel as it was getting late! The heat hit me even though it was 10.30pm- so humid and tropical heat compared the Middle East! Sure enough we had a huge storm/downpour on the drive! In the hostel I got chatting to a guy who was from Jordan, funnily enough!! He's here working and was visiting Mumbai on a weekend break!
Sunday: I was so hungry but not much nearby was open! I got an apple and then some street food- fried balls with some sauces?! It was like 30p and not bad, although maybe not breakfast material! I met the Jordanian guy and we went out to explore Mumbai- it is a huge city! We got the metro and local trains which was an experience- only about 10p a ride! But the doors are left open and so you do see everyone just hanging out the doors, mainly cos it's the coolest place! We went to see the Gateway to India- an arch that king George had built and where the final British troops left in 1948! Plus, lots of Victorian buildings, etc, nearby! And the sea- although it is disgusting water- full of rubbish! We walked a lot- I felt bad for him as he is fasting for Ramadan and so couldn't drink anything and it was so hot! We navigated the trains again to Dhobi Ghat- India's largest laundrette! It's a whole big slum which dedicates itself to doing the washing for all the hotels, hospitals, etc, in Mumbai! It was an interesting sight! I said bye to Rami, as he was going back to his town. I got the train back and bought some more street food and had a cold drink without feeling guilty! My first impressions are that India is what you expect- a feast for the senses! I had more people take pictures of me than I took! They all want a picture with the blonde girl! But people were friendly and helpful. There is a far more prominent backpacker scene here, which means lots of people to meet but they are of a younger, party-minded, less adventurous ilk than in my recent destinations.
Monday: I decided to do a tour of the Dhavari slums- it's the biggest in India with a population of 1 million in 2.2sq km, but an annual turnover of 700 million USD! I don't really like poverty tourism, but the guide was a local guy from the slums and the tours are his families only income and I think it's important that we are aware of how people live. And indeed, we have many misconceptions about Indian slums- the people there are all working hard! I saw them sorting plastics into colours, they wash it, cut it, melt it and sell it to be reused! I saw the pottery workshops. The clothes workshops and metal recycling, the women making poppadoms to sell to the restaurants. Most people living there are migrants from other parts of India who leave their families to come and work and send money home. They make about $6 a day, but the bosses give them accommodation, food, etc. I saw the residential area- they have running water for an hour a day and constant electricity. Communal toilets. The guide showed me the "house"/room he lives in with his parents. They can get free education and basic healthcare and all religions live harmoniously. It was a very interesting tour! I got a tuk-tuk to a market area and got myself 3 new pairs of loose trousers for about £9. Had some street food- a pancake type thing and tried some of the local desserts (not as nice as the Jordanian). Back at the hostel I was chatting to a few people- an Indian guy gave me some ideas. I'm trying to organise some volunteer work while I'm here, as I think I will get bored just going city to city! I need a new adventure/challenge! The older women here still wear the traditional saris, but young people are all wearing jeans and very western attire! There are lots of beggars at the stations, particularly maimed, and people are asleep everywhere and spit a lot!
Tuesday: I was arranging the bus to Goa- the hostel wanted 1400 rupee, but I could book it online for 700- although most sites don't accept international cards. I was also trying to arrange a SIM card, but they make it so difficult- they want all your details, photos, references, etc. So in the end, I got it through the hostel and probably paid more that I needed to for the ease. I got the trains and tried to find the Ghandi museum, but nothing here is easy and when I asked people they had no idea! So I ended up just mooching and trying various street foods. I chatted in the hostel to a few people and then got a tuk-tuk to the bus stop. The bus was meant to arrive at 6.45- a sleeper bus with air con that would arrive in Goa about 8.30am. So I waited and waited! It finally arrived almost 2 hours late! But it was comfortable enough- I was in a top bunk, although the roads are so bumpy here! About 2am we'd stopped, I thought it was a toilet break but we'd stopped for ages and some people were shouting (all Indians on the bus). Someone told me that it had broken down! It was hot on the bus, as the air con wasn't working, so we stood around outside. Finally a guy showed up on a motorbike and tinkered a bit and got it going again!
Wednesday: it was nice to be able to see the scenery in the light- very lush and green! We stopped about 11am for food and the toilet. And 18 hours after we left, we arrived at Mapusa in Goa. I shared a taxi with a big black South African guy to my hostel- a nice place and only £3.60 a night, including breakfast! Goa is really quiet compared to usual as it's monsoon season, so some things are shut but already I like it more the overwhelming city of Mumbai! I took a walk to the beach and then up to an old Portuguese fort where I watched the sunset with two indian guys, one of whom was playing the guitar. There are more indian people here on holiday than foreigners and so I had at least a dozen people ask to take pictures with me- I might start charging! I found a restaurant for some traditional local food for about £1.50.
So we'll see what adventures occur on this leg of my adventure! And remember- vote Labour!!