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It's probably very cliché to say that visiting Africa has permanently and irrevocably changed our perspectives on life. But looking back at the past 46 days we've spent here, I couldn't honestly say there's been a time or place that's opened my eyes to the world more than here.
I've learnt so much. From the histories of the countries, their unique plights and successes, their colonisation from the Europeans or Arabs and consequent fights for independence. Their internal struggles, current tensions and corrupted political and social systems. Their day-to-day lives and national identities. The disparity between rich and poor - both as individuals and as nations. The list goes on. I have been amazed by the diversity between countries; in my ignorance I presumed all countries in Africa were much the same and dealing with identical social and developmental problems. This is not the case. Each country is a canvas: painted and adjusted over and over, forever changing, sometimes progressing and at other times regressing due to the different political hands weilding the proverbial paintbrush.
I have realised the value of a dollar. Most locals across the continent live off a dollar a day. It's hard to explain what that equates to for anyone who hasn't been here and seen it themselves. Most people are clothed in hand-me-downs more worn than what we thoughtlessly throw away back home. Most people live off maize-meal for breakfast, lunch and dinner (occasionally being able to afford a few greens, maybe some rice or meat offcuts for variety). Most people don't expect gifts for Christmas, or a party for their birthday. Most people have no access to free or affordable healthcare. Most people die young. But don't think for a second that this changes their levels of happiness from day to day. The smiles are wide and genuine here, and their national pride is unmistakable. Money doesn't make you happy.
I have become addicted to safari. I will never forget watching hyenas chase down an antelope in the early morning light, or watching the wildebeest move across the savannah from a hot air balloon. Hearing a silverback gorilla roar. Watching the stars and listening intently to the elephants move nearby in the pitch black during our night safari with Jordan. Bird watching at Gweru and Kruger; sitting in admiration of a small pied kingfisher or a massive fish eagle. Watching lions mate, learning how to track cheetah, listening to zebras (a.k.a. disco donkeys) chirp. Being bogged next to a lion. Being charged by a hippo. Accidentally calling out "lion!" when it's just a deceptively-shaped rock. The list goes on. It's everything you could imagine and so much more.
I have become passionate about conservation. I don't think it would be possible to see one of the few remaining mountain gorillas in their ever-decreasing natural environment and not feel distraught at their impending extinction. I can not imagine the mindset of a person who kills a peaceful, playful elephant or a placid, regal rhinoceros for their ivory. I used to think poaching was something of the past. Again I was wrong. Kruger National Park alone loses two rhinos a day to poachers, while Hwange National Park has only three remaining in total. The horn of a rhino sells for US$100,000/kg, making each animal worth around the million-dollar mark and rendering the protective services of the developing economies in Africa incapable of effectively combatting the trade themselves. Experts say if things don't change, rhinos will be wiped off the face of the Earth in 10 years.
Most laughably of all, I had thought that this 46 day trip through Africa would be a once-in-a-lifetime travel destination. We didn't think we'd ever return to the continent again. Now, I can guarantee that we will be back. Cape Town calls, the meerkats of Namibia call, the Okovango Delta of Botswana calls. We're yet to see the great masterpieces of Egypt or even touch on the countries of central Africa or the West Coast. Most of all I think we will return for the people. The warm heart of Malawi, our tour leaders and drivers with Acacia, even the smiling, waving children on the roadside. It's fair to say we're not yet done with Africa.
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