After a warm and accomodating welcome at our riad in Rabat (Sjane booked us in for September instead of April and they still found us a room), we instantly felt more at ease than we did in our time in Marrakech. Whilst there, we were constantly accosted by locals wanting to make a quick buck through scams or lies. None of this was new to us: Westerns in developing countries are often perceived as money bags, and therefore a target. A bit of poking and he/she will spill the annual salary of 4 locals to appease and silence the assailant. I get tired of this pretty quick and as such, it was nice to be somewhere we could feel a little more relaxed knowing our hard-earned pennies were safer.

Our first night in Rabat was spent dining at one of the best restaurants we've been to so far. The food was flavoursome, the decor and ambience sublime, and the staff were generous with their smiles and serving sizes. And the prices were good too! This is the kind of place I like to tip; to show my appreciation for their friendliness, their hospitality and their excellent service. I'm not normally one to tip, but our waiter here was lovely in every way and we were happy to repay that with generosity. Another great sign that this is my kind of city!

Setting off on foot the next day our spirits were high as we headed to Kasbah des Oudayas; a walled fortress part of town reminiscent of towns in the Greek Isles. Vivid blue and washed white walls lead to maze-like alleys and open up unexpectedly to huge terraces that overlook the beaches (I use the term loosely), locals practising their soccer skills and the Atlantic Ocean. It was here that we got chatting to a local lady who wanted to show us her house and, in doing so, were inadvertently whisked inside for mint tea and some spectacular views over the river. Sjane and our host chatted away happily; sharing stories from their respective day-to-day lives and families, as well as stories about the town. I wanted to believe that this lady was simply being generous with her time and tea (and was enjoying our excellent company), but my niggling inner sceptic wouldn't shut up. Must I always be so cynical and not trust that people are just wanting to show kindness?

Eventually it was time for us to take our leave and give thanks for her hospitality, and I almost thought that her generosity was going to turn out to be sincere. Alas, no. Her parting words: "Now you pay some money for my hospitality?"

Why must some people be like this? When did humans forsake giving freely and showing generosity simply because it's the right and kind thing to do? I can understand that on some level there is a difference in the quality of life and perceived affluence of some tourists and the people they visit. But I don't believe that is a valid excuse for trying to guilt others into giving you money, simply because you were generous to them first. I'd like to think we could all be generous and kind to one another simply for the sake of it.

I read a quote recently: "It becomes him who gives not to remember the favor: but it becomes she who receives not to look upon the gift as much as the soul of the giver". Wise words. If only this was the case all the time.