A 4 hour journey from Sihnoukville on a local bus quickly became 6 having discovered the extent on the flooding in Phnom Penh. We arrived at the well named Okay Guesthouse mid-day. We dropped our bags and quickly made our way to the riverside for some lunch. We found ourself ducking and diving between hoards of motor bikes, ever eager for business tuk tuk drivers, crazy women with birds in cages, pensioners playing hacky sack and bewildered tourists, we sat down for lunch and by the end of the meal had our rather childish art work in a prime location on the wall.

The next morning we jumped in the back of Martins new mates tuk tuk and headed for some serious tourism, the war prison known as S21 was the first stop and and what a stop, kept both as a memorial for the thousands of men, women and children that were tortured and killed there and as a reminder of the dark side of the human spirit to ensure that nothing as atrocious will ever be allowed to happen in Cambodia ever again. On the walls hang the head shots of every prisoner arriving at the compound, the look of terror in there eyes will not be easily forgotten. After one very sobering experience on to another, the killing fields, a gruesome place were all the former inmates of S21 were joined by thousands of others from around Cambodia to be executed, women were raped and beheaded, men were bashed on the head or had there throats cut, babies were held by their legs and viciously swung head first into the "killing tree". Whatever the method of execution the end was the same, piled hundreds deep in mass graves and buried, some alive, most dead.

In a reflective mood we headed back into town for some more light hearted tourism, we were dropped at the far end of the city and made our way back to the hotel via temples, monuments and markets. A nice cosy restaurant was made home while we waited for our 12:30pm pick up and our onward journey to Vietnam.