PUDUCHERRY - PONDICHERRY

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We had an autorick booked to take us back to the new bus stand, which was in fact not much different from the old bus stand except the rubbish had not quite covered every surface and the street beggars had not formed the same kind of community dwellings. In the old bus stand they have constructed an impressive row of terraced boxes and banana/palm leaves that Bear Grylls would be proud of.

The driver was great, we gave him the details of where we were headed and asked him to point us towards the correct bus, well better than that he nearly drove us onto it. He pulled up at the bottom of the bus steps, talked to the conductor, got a few people already seated on the bus moved around and ordered us to take the front seat while he loaded our bags and made sure they were secured.

There were no direct buses to "Pondicherry" or "Pondy" (as everyone shortens it to) so we had to change in a town called Chidambaram. We had a great first leg, front window seats with a perfect vantage point to view all the busy towns and villages and the open lush green of the paddy fields whizzing by. We were sticking to the dusty back roads but because we were on a more modern bus the standard of travel was much improved and we weren't thrown in the air or bumped about at every turn. The journey took four hours and cost us 1.60.

We finally arrived in Chidambaram, alighted, got the packs strapped on and made our way through the crowds to find the bus to Pondy for the next leg of our journey.

The heat was an intense dry heat and as soon as we left the bottom step we were soaked through. Carrying the packs is not a problem, carrying the packs in searing heat while trying to navigate your way through a crowd of 300 locals that have no manners and would rather walk into you and knock you over than make any room for you is a nightmare.

After spending twenty minutes trying and failing to get a straight answer from anyone about the bus to Pondy patience was wearing thin. We dropped our bags and tag teamed asking for assistance. Nobody wanted to help us. The office staff pointed us in one direction, the conductors another and the drivers kept saying "no bus to Pondy!" Arrgghh!!! We were getting nowhere fast.

More and more people were piling into the tiny bus station and jumping on buses until they overflowed because of course they could read the destinations on the front of the bus. We finally had a clear answer that there were no buses to Pondy, we would have to catch a bus to a place called Cuddalore for an onward connection. Armed with this information and renewed vigor we headed in search of the bus to Cuddalore. We found many buses that were going our way but we just couldn't manage to get on them. They were either full to the seams or had a conductor pushing us off and gesturing to our bags. They did not want us on the bus as our bags would take up the room of two people and space means money.

After getting pushed one time to many we were in melt down, voices were getting raised, hand gestures and sign language was more animated and we were close to getting arrested which would not of been a bad thing as at least we would have a bed for the night and with a backhander they would of probably given us a lift.

At that moment our knight in shining armour stepped out from the crowd. He had been watching the commotion and decided he would help. He spoke good English and happened to be heading to the same destination. He waited with us for the correct bus, pushed his way on, argued profusely with the conductor, secured us a single seat and helped us haul our bags through the baying crowd.

Our seat was a single right at the front. "Ramesh" Our knight and Rod "My knight" sat on the dashboard in the front window of the bus. I was on the seat with the bags piled all around me. We didn't care as long as we were going to get there in one piece (which at that moment in time was 50/50). The bus began to fill up and because of the palaver it was now rush hour and everyone wanted to get home at the same time. There were at least 150 people on the bus and ten of those were crammed in alongside us between the dash board and the first seat. How the driver controlled the vehicle we will never know. It was the most uncomfortable hour and half we have experienced yet, physically and mentally as watching Rod in the window with oncoming traffic, cow's in the road and speeding then braking nearly sent us over the edge.

On a wing and a prayer we arrived safe in Cuddalore and prepared ourselves for the final leg. We found the bus to Pondi with Ramesh's help, said our goodbye's and attempted to board. We were blocked by another conductor and pushed off again because of our bags, this was getting beyond a joke and just as we were about to unleash a round of obscenities Ramesh appeared again from nowhere, literally dragged our bags over to another coach shouting at us to run, bundled us onto it and made sure the doors were shut firmly behind us. God Bless him he was so glad to see the back of us the relief was written all over his face. Mission accomplished.

After another bumpy hour of standing in the aisle trying to support our packs and maneuver them an inch here and there when people pushed past trying to get on/off we were dropped at the side of a main road in the pitch black and told to get off. Welcome to pondicherry.

We hadn't actually rang ahead for any accommodation as we planned to do this on the bus from Chidambaram. We headed across the main road to a couple of hotels as we thought we could stay for one night and get ourselves cleaned up, rested and move on to a budget choice the next day. The first hotel receptionist looked at us like we had been living on the street for a month (which to be fair is exactly how we looked) and firmly told us "no room". The second wanted to charge extortionate rates for a room we would happily of exchanged to live on the street as it would of been cleaner. Exhausted, bedraggled and hungry we turned to the Lonely Planet and rang a few guest houses, one luckily had a room available so we jumped in a rickshaw not even bothering to barter and slumped in the back unable to move or speak. This didn't last long as we had to direct the driver every step of the way as he had no idea where he was going, which made the fact he tried to claim commission from the guest house for taking us there even more amusing. "Jesus loves a trier."

"Ganga Guest House" is an 1880 French colonial building decorated through in red and yellow. It has a great aura and you instantly feel relaxed and at home. The book likens it to being on the antique set of a period piece Bollywood blockbuster and this is a fitting description. There are Bollywood posters adorning the walls in most rooms. The main entrance/chill out room is open with four central pillars housing a sunken floor containing a shrine, a huge imposing highly decorative mirror and a few house plants which all adds to create a dramatic effect. The rustic furniture compliments this and the raised area with scatter cushions and beautiful lanterns completes the look. Our room was a large size with a futon bed (it was actually just sleeping on a wooden board,) select pieces of antique furniture and woven arts and crafts style bedding. We loved it but it was out of our budget for a long stay at 12 pound a night but a great treat after a long day.

We just dumped our stuff, freshened up and headed in search of food. We really needed a good meal and had been told that Pondy was the place to get it. The French influence extended to the cuisine. We found a restaurant just around the corner that was attached to a quality hotel and decided that whatever the price we deserved this. After an initial hiccup where they hadn't got the vegetarian option we required we chose half a Tandori Chicken, Garlic naan, Chicken Tikka and rice. This also came with a veg curry (which was the original dish they hadn't got?.) It was amazing and we ate it like we hadn't been fed for a week. Stomach stretched to burst we waddled our way back to the "Ganga" made the most of the free internet (if only to justify the cost of the room) and comatosed on the hardboard for a much needed nights sleep.

Next morning we got a rick to the hotel Continental in the east side of town. A nicer part of town. This did not have the same ambience as the "Ganga" or the welcoming, helpful staff but it had got large clean rooms, a comfy bed and a TV (just in time for the Stoke v's Birmingham game.)

We locked our things together and headed out for a day of exploring and sightseeing.

Pondy is split from East to West by a partially covered canal. (Canal actually being an open sewer, that is seen to be regularly topped up by a long row of men urinating into it.) The "French" part of town is on the east side towards the sea, and as we were now staying here is the side we explored first. It was such a welcome relief from the constant humdrum of the previous towns and cities. We strolled down the tree lined rue's at leisure taking in the colonial architecture spanning a few centuries then made our way out onto the seafront promenade running alongside the Bay of Bengal. There is no beach as such just the waves crashing onto huge boulders and rocks.

The first sight that stands out from the crowd of beautiful buildings is "The Hotel de Ville." (The Town Hall) It is antique Grandeur at it's best and even in its disheveled state with renovation work under way it oozes charm and class. Next on the heritage tour is The "Ghandi" statue. This is an impressive and unique monument and is 4m high surrounded by eight granite pillars said to be transported from Gingee Fort.

Just before this monument is "Le Cafe" which used to be the Old Port House in years gone by. Now it is a lovely place to sit and listen to the waves crashing in with a freshly brewed coffee. We added a Cheese, lettuce and tomato sandwich to the mix and were in actual heaven. Something so simple yet so pleasurable. The staff ruin the feel of the place with their abrupt manner and lack of customer service skills but this is a recurrent theme in India where the customer is always wrong.

We made our way from East to West alongside Bharathi Park. This is a large expanse of greenery in the heart of Puducherry. Regal trees with overhanging canopies provide much needed shade from the harsh city sun and many locals can be found making the most of this. Besides the beautiful Aayi Mandapam in the centre of the park, there are a number of smaller surprises that greet you as you walk around, like the exquisitely carved granite pillars and stone carvings of various gods and yallis. The park is surrounded by several impressive buildings including the fiercely guarded Raj Niwas or government house. This is a harmonious blend of French and Indian style of architecture. It is the Lieutenant Governor's residence and not open to the general public but you can peek past the guards and marvel in the imposing elegance.

We enjoyed meandering through the cobbled streets and basking in the tranquility and air of wealth until we followed Nehru Street (one of the main streets that runs from East to West) over the canal and into the awaiting pandemonium of the Tamil quarter.

It is astonishing to think you are in the same country let alone the same city. It is a complete contrast to the clean, calm collective that is the east. You are dragged in kicking and screaming to the noise, pollution, pile after pile of rubbish,hawkers, drivers, animals of every description, people living on the streets (a high number here), construction around every corner, a place full of energy awakening your senses and making you feel alive. It was refreshing to take a break from the mayhem for a while but it was good to back.

We were spat out onto MG road one of the main roads that runs from North to South. We gathered ourselves for a minute before being drawn into a concrete warren filled with colour, seafood, fresh veg, flowers, nuts, rice, spices, all laid out in uniformed rows each having there own section and place to fit in. There isn't just one lady selling fish, there are twenty. They have upturned buckets laden with Whole prawns, Wooden planks with layers of rock fish and small tanks of water with fresh crabs, this goes on and on for every different section, stall after stall piled high with curious shapes, sizes and colours of fruit and vegetables most we recognised but some we didn't. After the food and flora there are Tailors, laundry services, followed with clothes stalls and fashion outlets. This is then complimented by the accessories, jewellery, bangles, hair, bags, shoes, cobblers,and shoemakers, it all seems never ending and is filled to the rafters with eager punters picking up their essentials and on the lookout for a bargain. Everyone was really welcoming and friendly, they all showed an interest in our photography and happily posed for photos, insisting they be taken and then viewed after with a beaming proud smile. The down side to all this is the waste products. There are no different coloured wheely bins to separate the waste just piles and piles of rotting leftovers strewn along every aisle which provided a perfect home for the rats which could be seen scurrying in and out. You can imagine the stench, we made it through with the help of a touch of Tiger Balm under each nostril but full credit to the vendors who endure this all day every day its unbearable but well worth a short visit.

We came out on the opposite side of the market along Mission St which is the other major N-S main road. We carried on taking in the sights and swapping back into MG road to take in the temples.

Manakula Vinayagar Koil

This temple is more than 300 years old and is dedicated to Ganesha. It has a golden spire and walls portraying forty different forms of Ganesha. The temple also has a smaller shrine dedicated to Lord Murugan, who is Ganesha's younger brother. Over 5000 devotees flock to this site everyday.

Varadaraja Perumal Temple

This temple is believed to be the oldest temple in town, dating back to 600 AD. The temple built in the typical Dravidian style, complete with brightly coloured 'gopuram' and sculpted pillars, is probably the oldest standing structure in puducherry. This temple is dedicated to Vishnu. Legend has it, that the temple was originally built for the idols of Rama, Sita, Lakshman and Hanuman, which were brought to the present site by fishermen, from the sea. The main deity here is Venkatachalapathy (Vishnu). Right behind that is a separate shrine for Narashima (who is also an avatar of Vishnu).

Vedhapureeswarar Temple

This temple also known as the Eashwaran koil, is located on M.G.Road and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It has colourful 'gopuram', adorned by the statues of gods and goddesses, like most temples in South India.

We continued ambling through the chaos taking in more of the architecture which differs again from the French quarter. In the Tamil section of the city there are more houses with 'thalvaram' and 'thinnais'. The thalvarams are street verandas with a leaning roof which is supported by wooden posts. Vertical columns and pillars with ornamented parapets which are characteristic features of typical Tamil style of houses. The thinnais are public verandas with masonry seats for guests and visitors.

You see the architecture here is highly influenced by the culture of the place.The cityscapes of the two different sectors strongly reflect the lifestyle and practices of the people living there.

It is incredible to see the range of different architecture which has travelled through time. I hope the photos will reflect this and you will understand why we keep talking about it.

The day finished perfectly with a Stoke City win and a good nights sleep under a starry sky. (The starry sky was actually painted onto the ceiling in uv paint but same, same.)

The next day was much of a muchness, exploring more of the city taking in the everyday goings on and the sights we had missed.

We braved the bus station and found out times and a stand number for the following day before checking out the botanical gardens. Having visited some of the most wondrous Botanical Gardens around the world it is not a title I would give to these. It was an open space with a collection of evergreen foliage and sturdy trees and could of been beautiful if it had not been filled with rubbish and used as a public toilet.

We were taking snaps as we went and came across a small garage workshop on the street. We asked the owner if we could take a few photos and he was delighted and ushered us in. It just so happened that he was in the Guinness Book of Records (and an Indian version) in 2002, 2003 and 2004 for riding his motorbike (scooter) with his hands tied behind his back for charity and he was filled with pride as he showed off his certificates and regaled us with the story. It was so funny like he had been waiting in this garage for someone new to come along so he could relive and share the experience again. He was adorable and we spent some time with him viewing photo's and listening to stories of his family and how he was leaving his body to science when he died (another certificate he had on show.)

There are a lot of schools in the French quarter (as there are a lot of ex pats and wealthier Indians.) We watched for a while as the younger children came out of primary school for lunch. Some were collected by their parents (mostly boys) and whisked home on a scooter but the majority (all girls) were joined by their Mum taken across the street to sit on the shaded side of the pavement where a cover was laid out and lunch was served. It was amusing to watch the children get easily distracted and the mum's chasing them around hand feeding them rice and curd before getting them to sit long enough to wipe their faces (yep, the old spit on a tissue trick is universal) comb their hair and generally tidy them ready for the second half of school.

We also viewed a school on the Tamil side of the city. This was in a mini bus that is set up for street children and child workers who without this would have no chance of an education or a good start in life. A sad reminder of how the other half live.

Pondy has a mix of religions and as we had visited the Hindu temples the previous day we decided to check out some of the other famous religous architecture.

Church of the sacred heart of Jesus

Located on Subbayah Salai, this white and brown neo-gothic church is one of Pondy's finest Catholic churches. It was built by French missionaries in the 1700's in a contrasting Neo-Gothic manner, with towers flanking a central gable and stained glass windows on the side. The church has an imposing entrance and the beautiful stained glass panels depict incidents from Jesus Christ's life. Further along the southern boulevard is the cemetery which has some interesting tombs with ornate marble decorations.

The Notre Dame des Anges

The Church of our Lady of the Angels on rue Romain Rolland was built in 1852 in the Greek Roman architectural style. Its façade, flanked by two unadorned square towers, faces east towards the ocean. The interior is roofed by a barrel vault, with a great dome rising over the crossing. The pastel peach and lime colours give it a very serene appearance.

This church is also famous for its rare oil painting of Our Lady of the Assumption, which was a gift from the French emperor, Napoleon III. The cemetery next to the church has the tomb of Marquis de Bussy (dated 1785), who was one of Dupleix's most enterprising followers.

Both were stunning examples in their own right.

Meeran Mosque.

Meeran Mosque is the oldest in Puducherry believed to be more than 350 years old and is in the style of Gothic Islam. It is a beautiful structure with four lofty pillars supporting a huge dome. As non muslims we were not allowed to entry.

Again after working up an appetite walking for miles we took advantage of the great choice of western cuisine and went for a pizza. What a treat. Cooked in a traditional stone oven, with crispy paper thin crust, topped with "proper Cheese", tomato, basil, onion and pineapple finished with Oregano and chilli flakes. A perfect end to a wonderful stay.

We really enjoyed the different experiences Pondicherry gave us. We would recommend a visit and wished we could stay longer if only to take advantage of the tasty food ... but alas its back to masala dosa and no choice as we make our way to Mamallapuram.