Blog 10 Lake Vänern 10th July - 2015

Sjötorp - Lake Vänern - Torso - Lidköping - Läckö Castle

When I said in my last blog that Lake Vänern would occupy us for some time I had not imagine that we would be pinned down for the best part of a week by a course of high winds generously served with side orders of heavy showers.

We had already left Sjötorp where the last lock opens out into the mighty lake and waved farewell to the last of the yellow topped Gota Canal girls who had efficiently ( mainly ) passed Talisman up then down the line. It was here that a band of marauding Norwegian Vikings came into the marina in their warlike vessel which on closer inspection appeared to have a diesel engine and I had the impression that the Vikings were probably on a company bonding experience - but who is to say that is not what the Vikings of old did?

Looking back, I can see now that along the canal there really is little need to do a lot of research to find the next brilliant stopping location but once in the lake it is much more important to have found out where the nicest spots are. We had some idea but it would be easy to miss some wonderful locations and visit others where which have little to recommend them. Lately I have talked to Swedish crews who are delighted to let you in on the unmissable venues.

After the canal, the lake seems to stretch over horizons in every direction, vast, open and almost free of boats. A 15 miles sail out to Torso, passing a wire operated ferry - imagine a yellow barge towed across your intended course by a rather large cheese wire. Passed sun worshipping Swedes laying like lakeside lizards prone in the sun ( they still sell factor 20 can you believe, ) to an overnight anchorage in what I thought would be a tiny natural bay. This turned out to be an enormous stretch of water leaving us a quarter mile from the nearest land - totally glassy sea as usual with only a tree line to look at - a bit disappointing.

There is always the evening light though to enhance the scene and towards sunset, a herd of cows silently appeared from the forest to drink at the waters edge - an ace scene and entertaining as we had seen no life at all for a few hours and had talked jokingly of moose appearing - what is the plural of moose by the way? The final twilight sky and its reflection in the water put on a show to compare with some images of the aurora borealis I have seen.

Driven by a forecast of impending weather doom we found ourselves holed up in Lidköping towards the Southern end of the lake. A good location for car hire to Gothenberg which we needed to return grandson to his owners, and a top spot to catch the bus to Läckö Castle which is straight out of the Disneyland castle style book. Lidköping is a good size but half industrial and half original - not altogether a gem like I imagine Tunbridge Wells to be but the locals continue to cherish their classic American cars which burble or throb by and float along cobbled roads in a dazzling display of chrome, Flash Gordon accessories and whitewall tyres not to be outdone by the outrageous crocheted bicycle I saw parked in the town square though - clearly a subversive reactionary group at work here.

I will spare you the history of the castle which goes something like, 1258 built by somebody, somebody lost it, somebody who has a statue looking like a cross between the Laughing Cavalier and Puss in Boots took it over, a bishop had it, there was a fire, it was extended by a son and now the tourists have it plus a Viking ship to have a go on and fancy your chances. Well worth the trip, a beautiful setting and as I have seen elsewhere in Sweden many times and also built by early settlers in Canada, there is fencing made absolutely only of rough split diagonal timber pales and twisted bark, sometimes free standing with tripod "posts" - you have to see it to understand what I am unable to put adequately in words but you try making a stock proof fence without wire or nails.

Along the lake edge, where the marsh grass meets farmed fields and crops, four or five common cranes (very big birds) were spotted feeding. They kind of pivot when feeding, such that you either see only their black and white heads or their plumed rumps above the long grass - sadly we were travelling in our speedy 132 bus and while I did manage one photograph, it is not admissible as evidence without a very powerful magnifying glass so you will have to take my word for it but we have claimed the points.

Continuing grey and windy weather seemed an unlikely backcloth to drive with pleasure to and from Gothenberg ariport, but it was, with low speed limits and sparse density of traffic passing through a land dressed in forests, broad farmland with earth red buildings and smooth rock lenses emerging and shaping the terrain. Nobody was in a hurry and so the large safety margin ahead was never claimed by some impatient opponent. It was ironic that having said goodbye to nature lover grandson James, two deer should scurry across our path into the forest and within 24 hours our paths were crossed again first by a large gangling hare to our left, its legs seeming too big for its frame, then immediately to our right a fine black mink with something in its mouth.

Finally, the wind calmed down and the sun came out - a relief to set sail again and 10 miles later we moored below Läckö Castle just to see it from the water, a peaceful harbour about 10% full, the castle bathed in golden evening light and time to mail my blog.