Thursday 18th
So after a bus ride into Shwenyaung it was a short taxi ride to Nyaungshwe. Arrive at the Mingalar Inn and so far very impressed.

I've been looking forward to this bit of the trip as we accidentally timed it in with one of the major festivals in Myanmar. Processions of boats take to the lake and surrounding canals to reach every pagoda in the area. This takes 18 days, during which is dancing, music & rowing races by the boatsmen here with their unique leg rowing technique.

We have a walk around the local area and there seems to be lots to do here so it is likely we'll be boating, canoeing, cycling (via the vineyard) and maybe some trekking whilst we're here. As well as the festival this more than makes up for the rest days we had to take.

Sy's skin is a lot better so just savlon crazy for another couple of days and I'm pretty much healed.

One negative so far about where we are and it is only petty but we've see more westerners here than anywhere so far! We have been very spoilt to be exploring this beautiful land without seeing another foreigner until returning to the hotel. Not sure if its the location or the festival or a little of both but it's a little bit of shame we now are sharing with more foreigners than normal!!

We ventured to Green Chilli Restaurant as heard good things. I had a lovely dinner of fresh fish from the lake stuffed with onions, tomatoes etc we booked a canoe trip for the next afternoon.

Friday 19th
Our 1st trip to a bank to change money. So far we've been doing it with the hostel as the rate was good and safer than Mr Black Market. We then followed our canoe rower to the canoe! Ok so I wasn't the most graceful getting in but I didnt fall in so I was happy. As literally a dug out canoe it was very close to the waters edge & the slightest movement rocked it dangerously close to capsizing! They're only meant for 2 people + rower so it was a lovely trip. Through the reeds into villages on stilts. It was so peaceful, wish I could have turned around to see our rower though as he used the traditional leg rowing method we'd seen this area famous for. We ended up at a monastery were we spent some time talking about many subjects with one of the monks there. So peaceful & before we knew it a cat had curled up in Sy's lap (sorry Mits!)

Saturday 20th
It was an early night as up for boat trip out in the lake at 5:30am. We saw some of the floating procession for the festival here heading to another village. 40 odd boats all with about 50 people on each boat all rowing in unison towing the areas prized Buddha's around each towns pagodas. These were Buddha relics as we know them but they have been anointed with some much gold leaf they now resemble gold snowmen wrapped in cloth!
After the procession we went to a local market via a gold shop. The market was busy but good & we topped up
on moisturiser!! Sy very kindly pointed out a black out stick I could use to cover up my greys. Then took a large step back, cheeky git!!! After a quick tea break it was onto a weaving workshop. Interestingly they also wove lotus flower stem. Creates a silk type fiber that was pretty cool. We were driven around local villages for some great photos of daily life. Stop for lunch then onto see some of the Karin women.

They always surprise me with their incredibly heavy gold rings from shoulder to chin around their neck making it look elongated. We sailed through the floating garden which was pretty ingenious. The lake has lots of floating plants, farmers have created a frame to then grow plants on the floating plants like tomatoes. If the lake water level rises the crop is unaffected. Last stop was the jumping cat monastery. Less of the jumping but lots of cats & a crazy amount of people. The festival procession had been in their pagoda yesterday so the clean up effort was on after what looked like the fallout from a massive Chapel Lane house party!!!

A long ride back across the river which was very relaxing apart from the loud drone of the long boat engine! The 18 year old driver gave the rudder over to his younger brother for this bit while he had a nap. Seems to be the norm round here. Luckily we're not worried about the 10 year old driver as to be fair, the boy has skills!!

The town itself is a hive of activity in preparation for the Buddhas arriving here. People are building things, decorating the streets & started letting their hair down. Many temporary bars have been set up. The early hoards of people set off for the arrival of the procession down at the jetty.

Sunday 21st and Monday 22nd
Annoyingly we're both too ill to venture that far but the good news is the to procession is is due to come right back our balcony so we'll head down to see it then. From what we've heard so far the party will be going until late at night so hoping we'll feel a little better by then.

Got some nice snaps of the procession coming past,many people pushing to pull the car holding the Buddhas as its makes its route through the town.

Tuesday 23rd
We were both stir crazy after being room bound for 2 days with Burma Belly so we were ready to make the most of our last day in Nyaungshwe.

We were up early and hired bikes for the day to cycle around some of the lake. We headed off along bumpy but tree lined tracks through the paddy fields towards the mountains. It was so peaceful, was great to stop at our leisure for drinks or to take photos. We ambled slowly along the base of the mountains to a small village. They agreed to take us plus the bikes across the lake in a long boat. Currently you can't ride or trek down south without an approved guide to protect the tribes living in the floating villages there. The boat ride across was fantastic, something about being on boats really relaxes Sy & I. We arrive the other side & managed to get us and the bikes off the boat without falling in which was a miracle. We rode off the lake via a long wooden bridge into a small village After a quick accidental detour into a banana plant forest & then a bamboo forest we found the main road again and headed off in search of the vineyard. The name Red Mountain should have given me a clue about its location but was still surprised at the gradient of hill we had to overcome to get there. I'm utterly s*** with hills, that and the midday sun beating down on me while trying to push my bike up it was a struggle. But a lovely reward, a great view from the top and after a tasting session of 5 wines I didn't really remember the struggle!! Thank god home was downhill though!!

We cycled back and decided to take it easy for the afternoon so returned the bikes.

The festival here is crazy, it seems from talking to locals that the place turns into its own little alien for 5 days. We'd seen the preparation of increasing the size of the market, funfairs arriving & temporary bars being installed. Only after walking through it can you really appreciate how unlike Myanmar this whole shindig is. The market is on all day & night, there is a building they use to put on a nightly show. Some theatre/opera/live pop & rock bands/weird plinky plonky crazy out of time & tune music. This started at around 6pm and continued until 6am everyday! Out hotel was just behind and man was it loud, we knew the show word for word by the time we left!! Walking around (well mosh pitting your way through) with various bars either side, all with different music playing was really reminiscent of festivals so we felt at home but man was it busy!

The big attractions for the locals were the coconut shy type stands. Especially the one where if you knocked the bottle of alcohol off the shelf it was yours. The tribespeople that had travelled to the town seemed transfixed with the throw a dart at a balloon stand. Walk around the corner and there was a tattooist, clearly popular based on the queue & although using modern equipment to tattoo, hygiene had me squirming as he finished one guy & started on the next without changing or sterilising anything. Here you go new guy, have whatever the last guy might have had jabbed into your bloodstream. Eek!!!

Wednesday 24th
We said our goodbyes to the hotel people today, they have been great. We took a taxi bound for the airport, after goodbye waves we were on the road again, a lovely drive through the mountains to get to the airport. A great little building affair where the plane pulls up outside and you get on, within 20 mins of it landing its ready to go again. What surprised us was the line of staff on the Tarmac to wave us off. Knowing we leave crazy early tomorrow morning I'm honestly sad to leave Myanmar. It has been a great starting location for us & little surprises along the way have added to our opinion of what it a humble, genuine, friendly country. Definitely sad it may not still be like this next time we visit.

So alarm clocks set for 3:30am (ouch!!) then off to Bangkok.

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