Hello from LA!
I arrived here safely this afternoon, I am severely jet-lagged as my body is telling me that it's Wednesday afternoon (when actually it's Tuesday night LA time) and I haven't slept properly since my Monday night. The city is exactly as I'd imagined; big cars, big roads, lots of beeping, lots of crazy homeless people and lots of tourists; it all seems very hectic after Fijian life but I'm excited to explore properly in the morning!
Time to update you on perfect Fiji first….
After spending a couple of days on the mainland arranging travel etc I headed off on the Yasawa Flyer (a big yellow catamaran) to my first island stop, Nacula, one of the most northern of the Yasawa islands. We were ferried from the Flyer to the island in a little wooden boat and were welcomed to the beach with traditional Fijian song and a big 'Bula'. Nabua Loadge was very basic in term of food etc (three small meals a day - no choice of menu) and was my first experience of going without hot water and unlimited electricity but it was a great first step into the Fijian way of life. It was on Nacula that I was introduced to the 'Bula dance' something which is now ingrained in my memory; it's basically a 'Macarena' type dance (only better) to a remix of La Bamba (everything in Fiji is remixed) and you get to shout Bula twice at the end of each sequence. I'll show you when I'm home!
I spent my time swimming, beaching or chilling in a hammock only interrupted by a trip around the bay to a shack selling still warm home-made cakes baked by a local Fijian woman, between 3 and 5 everyday. A slice of banana cake washed down with a slice of chocolate! This was the only source of alternative food so was quite popular, ha. All of the islands are road and shop-less, some are small enough to walk around in a few hours! I also spent a morning on Nacula in a local village, meeting with the chief (5 wives, approximately 100 children - despite this he was quite a modern chief holidaying in Washington D.C ha) and visiting the village school to be treated to a couple of songs from the children. New level of cuteness. These children have nothing of materialistic value at all (Fiji is still a third world country) yet they are so so happy!
My next island stop was Naviti and it was there that I completely unexpectedly bumped into Rajpal, one of the girls I'd spent time with in Byron Bay! Such a surprise to see a familiar face in the middle of the pacific ocean! The most energetic activity on this island consisted of crab-racing in the morning. Poor things, I hope they set them free at the end of day.
The next island was probably my favourite; the beautiful Waya Lei Lei. Not only did this island have the white sands and turquoise seas I'd already been spoilt with but the island itself was fairly mountainous, just adding to beauty of the place. Again, lots more hammock and book time. Heaven.
The last island stop of that particular trip was Beachcomber, a very small, very beautiful island of the Mamanucas chain. I was even spoilt with hot water, electricity and huge buffet style meals here, it felt so luxurious! The sand and water were probably the best I've ever seen, couldn't quite believe that I was there.
After a quick stop back on the mainland I decided to head out to another island for a longer stay of five nights. I caught a little jetboat (with about three times too many people on it) from New Town Beach directly to Mana Island. The water was really choppy and the petrol fumes filled the little cabin, it was like a repeat of the Phi Phi Island boat all over again. Stomach a-churning.
Mana is another beautiful Mamanucas Island and the backpackers I stayed in, Mana Lagoon, is a really welcoming, chilled place (albeit very basic!). A welcome song is sung to all newcomers (again, the tune of which is now ingrained in my memory) and you are told that have immediately become part of the Mana Family. The messages from previous guests scribbled all over the walls only confirm the hospitality of the place. Two English girls I'd met on Waya Lei Lei, Catherine and Mahree, also happened to be there so I spent my evenings Bula-dancing with them and another couple of English girls, Alex and Chloe from Manchester.
It rained for the entire first afternoon of my stay on Mana, the Tom Hanks film 'Castaway' was put on for us as the island on which the film was made is a 15 minute boat journey away. Just 10 minutes from the end the electric generator cut out though so we missed the final bit; that's Fiji for you! I visited the island itself the following day, very beautiful. We tried fresh coconut and half climbed the mountain/rocky bit (if you've seen the film you'll know what I mean) which was quite a task, we were basically on all fours scrambling up the rocks dripping with sweat, the view from the top was worth it though.
When we were back on Mana that evening we learnt of the terrible earthquake in Japan and were put on Tsunami alert soon after. Bosco, the co-manager of the place said that it'd be best for us to pack our essentials and go and sleep on a large hill nearby. So off we climbed through head-high shrubbery carrying water and mattresses for a night under the stars at the highest point on Mana Island. I think I slept for about half an hour, the rest of the time was spent swatting away mosquitoes, checking for grass snakes and listening to the Fijian radio for any updates on the situation. Whole Fijian families with young babies were camped up there in tents too. The warning was lifted just after 6 in the morning just as the sun was rising, thankfully we'd been lucky and nothing had happened.
I had my first (and last!) heavy Kava drinking session on Mana, unfortunately I was made 'Chief' so had to drink the first cup of every new bowl. Kava is a traditional Fijian drink made from the root of a plant and ends up as a muddy/watery drink drunk from a coconut shell. After the first few cups the lips and tongue begin to tingle and become numb, the drink then has a 'relaxing' affect on your body and mind. After about my ninth cup I could hardly keep my eyes open and had to retire from my duties as chief. Ha.
I spent my last full day on Mana (and in Fiji) walking to beautiful Sunset Beach (which once I got there, I had all to myself!) and taking in one last day of sunshine, reading and swimming.
Fiji = actual paradise! I feel so lucky to have been able to visit such a place.
San Francisco on Thursday, home on Saturday!
Love to you
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