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August 16th, 6.00 am, and waiting outside East side Marios again, waiting for a Queensway Tours bus, same as the start of our first New York trip back in March. At least it wasn't dark and freezing cold this time. We are off to Moosonee on the shores of Moose River, which empties into James Bay at the southern end of Hudson Bay. We will be staying on the Island of Moose Factory the site of the second Hudson Bay Company settlement established in 1673.
No, they do not manufacture moose at Moose Factory. It derives it's name from the title of the manager of the Hudson Bay Company Fort, the "Factor". Therefore, located on the Moose River it became know as Moose Factory.
Our first stop is at the town of Cobalt, a very rich silver mining town at the start of the 19th century, and morning tea is served in the Cobalt Mining Museum.
We travel on further by bus to Cochrane, where we stay the night, before catching the Polar Bear Express train in the morning. The train is the only terrestrial based transport into Moosonee. Even people's cars are transported on the train, which is a six hour rail journey. Interestingly, the station at Cochrane has been converted, or been built as, a multifunctional rail station, hotel and restaurant. So, all we had to do the next morning was walk down the stairs and out onto the station platform.
Arriving at Moosonee we are transported by Water Taxi to Moose Factory Island. Water Taxis are basically big canoes or fibre glass boats with a rough canopy made of 2x1 pine and covered in thick plastic and tarps. Bit of a surprise for some on the trip, it was quite a sight, five taxis roaring over the water in a flotilla travelling around the sandbar to the island! Yee-hah!!
The Eco-lodge where we stayed was very well done. Every thing was organic, furnishings, furniture, cleaning products. All the rooms were named and guess what ours was called, BEAR!! Donna couldn't believe it, "God, can't get away from them". We have dinner in the restaurant - Duckridge (?), Duck stuffed with Partridge! Not too bad, no alcohol though, we are on the Reservation.
Next morning we are off on a Water Taxi excursion to James Bay, some opted not to risk it but these guys know their stuff so we weren't worried. We grow up with bikes, motor bikes and cars, these guys grow up with snowmobiles and boats! So it was bounce, bounce across the wake of the other boats and out into James Bay. Not a narwhal or beluga whale to be seen.
Back on land and its an old yellow school bus for a tour of the island. No surprises here, all the local historic sites. St Thomas Anglican Church consecrated in 1864, Hudson Bay Company (HBC) Cemetery (earliest tombstone dated 1802), HBC Staff House circa 1847, HBC Blacksmith Shop circa 1849 and the HBC powder magazine circa 1865 to name a few. Not really 1673 buildings, but the fort over time has been captured by the French and recaptured by the English and also burnt to the ground twice. The post saw a lot of turmoil until the HBC and their competitors, the North West Company, merged in 1821.
The local Church of England ladies put on soup and bannock and a sandwich lunch for us and then it is off to the interpretive centre looking forward to buying some genuine Cree artefacts. But, we could have put all the artefacts in a broom closet. Very disappointing as we had put off buying stuff in the city stores as we hoped to give back to the community.
Back to Moosonee to catch the train back to Cochrane. With an hour or two to kill we try to find something First Nations but once again it was only what was at Moose Factory only $20 dearer!!, Back on the Polar Bear Express, expected to reach Cochrane, the birth place of Canadian legend Tim Horton, at 11 p.m. Then home to Ottawa the next day. One place we stopped on the way home was the home of the Dionne Quints in North Bay. A very sad story, not one of Canada's or humanities brightest moments. We arrive home and are told that we have been further north than most Canadians venture!
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