Mozying through the Marvellous Maritimes- Land of a hundred thousand welcomes.

Wahoo, summer holidays at last. The long break here begins with a 6.30 am taxi to YOW(Ottawa airport) for our long awaited Maritime trip. I have been to Halifax before so we hope to touch new ground. We leave Ottawa on a hot steamy day and arrive at Halifax Airport on a sensational day. 21C low humidity and sunny. We pick up our VW Jetta and set Karen (the indispensable GPS) for Halifax, 35 km away. Our plan was to visit the "Station Pier", the "Ellis Island" of Canada, Pier 21, where they processed over a million immigrants, but we hit the Sunday afternoon multicultural festival combined with the 4th July holiday and there was not a park in sight. By necessity, we drove around and around the waterfront area, which at least gave us a good orientation to Halifax.

We found a nice little Chinese restaurant and tried the Peking Duck! Our first, first for the trip.

So then we decided to book into our hotel, the very nicely appointed Prince George . One of our other objectives was to visit the Alexander Keith's brewery, and after a quick phone call to confirm times, saw us walking to the brewery. Alexander Keith was born in Scotland, learnt his brewing craft in England and arrived in Halifax in 1817. As word of his India Pale Ale spread across the land, so too did the legend of this great Brew master. Now this was no ordinary tour, it was an interactive theatrical performance with singing and dancing which made the tour quite enjoyable and good fun, plus a few "wee" drams of free stuff. (I liked that bit, it brought out the Scottish in me.) Having thus been encouraged, after the tour we visit the Red Stag Tavern to continue sampling and take stock of what to do next. The Red Stag (the Keith family crest) was a name given by Alexander Keith to his very own tavern where he entertained friends and associates. We did get to have a couple of free pints in the original Red Stag Tavern on the tour.

Now the focus of this blog is not usually food and drink, but the idea of this trip is to eat as much seafood as possible. So we sat searching through the local restaurant guides trying to decide where to go for dinner. Maxwell's Plum, the pub offering 60 beers on tap and 100 different bottled beers got the nod. Sunday offered 1 ½ pounds of mussels for $2.99 and we were in time for happy hour for the beers too! Bonus!! But, you get what you pay for, oh well better choices tomorrow. We Skype two of the kids later that night to finalise some arrangements for their visit in a fortnight, then we hit the hay. It had been a long time since YOW.

Off next morning to Pier 21, it was much less crowded this morning. 1.5 million immigrants, war brides and displaced persons, evacuee children and Canadian military service personnel passed through its doors between 1928 and 1971. We spoke to a gentleman who had worked there during the 50's, very interesting. So much like the Immigration museum in Melbourne. We are out of our comfort zone for one year, but it is absolutely amazing to hear some of the stories behind the people who bravely set off to settle in new countries either through war or poverty to the promise of a better life leaving family and friends behind.

From here we head to the Citadel, a historic fortification overlooking Halifax I had been there before but we wanted to witness the traditional 12 noon firing of the cannon. Every day of the year except for Christmas day, noon in Halifax is announced by the firing of the Noon gun, a tradition that has continued unbroken since 1856 and possibly before that. Today members of the 3rd Brigade, Royal artillery carry out this duty as it was performed in 1869. All the forts and pub tours here are staffed with people in period costumes, which adds so much to the atmosphere. We have a quick chat to a kilted guard about the difference between a Busby (bear skin and winter) and bonnet (ostrich feathers and summer) then we head for lunch to the Golden arches. Not noteworthy you say? BUT no, we go there for - wait for it- McLobster (only in the Maritimes??). We said it was a seafood orientated trip. After lunch we head off to the MUST SEE Peggy's Cove, promoted as being the most photographed lighthouse in Canada. The lighthouse at Peggy's cove would be ¾ the size of Airey's Inlet or Cape Shank. We have found that marketing here is very good and have been underwhelmed a couple of times. However the drive and scenery at the Cove was charming.

Dinner tonight, Stanyer's, can't go past the old Bendigo name. Seafood each of course, down in a reconstructed wharf in an old boat repair shop. At Stanyer's we watch the fog roll in to Halifax. The waitress tells us that they spend 50% of the time in the fog. You can almost hear the foghorns of the past blasting out of the eerie fog if you listen hard enough. Home to bed for an early start - a big day of travel tomorrow and our last day in Nova Scotia for a while, off to New Brunswick.

We wake next morning early , still in the fog. We head to Lunenburg, which we find a pretty little village. The buildings are well kept and the homes neatly renovated. Without the cars in the street you would believe that you had stepped back in time to the early 19th century. The Maritime theme is strong but so natural. From here we drive across Nova Scotia on a narrow winding road dotted with little farms and picturesque lakes to reach Annapolis Royal , the site of the longest surviving European settlement in Canada and home of the Arcadian peoples. We firstly visited Port Royal Habitation a simulated 1605 French colony, the first European settlement in Canada. This lasted till 1613 when it was burnt to the ground by the English. It was rebuilt in 1939. A simple exhibition, once again with the employees in period dress. We are there Tuesday morning so it's not in full swing, interesting all the same.

We also check out a tidal generating station. The Bay of Fundy is known for its massive tide shifts. To make use of this, Nova Scotia has developed an in-stream tidal generating system, by using the power of the world's highest tides. The Annapolis Tidal power plant generates more than 30 million kilowatt hours per year. Enough electricity to power 4,500 homes.

We have a choice between checking out the tidal power or seeing Fort Anne which was basically the remains of a 1635 French Fort, but we figure there's plenty of opportunity for the historic things later and we only have one chance to see a tidal station. We get to Digby to make the 4 o'clock ferry to New Brunswick and have enough time to sample, guess what, seafood! Digby is famous for scallops, so it's a scallop dinner for lunch, plus some take away scallops for the ride on the 3 hour ferry ride to New Brunswick.

Once again we are dogged by the fog, so no whale watching opportunities on board, but take advantage of the free on-board talks about the history of the settlement of the region, whale physiology and the geology of the region by an employee of the New Brunswick Museum. These prove to be very informative and entertaining. We dock at St John and head to the hotel it had been a big day.

St John is an interesting city, where most of the English Loyalists came after the American War of Independence. Here we look at the first Loyalist burial ground which is now in the heart of the city, wander through the City Market which is very much like the Vic Market with deli items, clothes and kick knacks but about a tenth of the size. We head up to the Loyalist house that has been in the same family for seven generations up till 1959 and one of the oldest homes in St John, surviving the big fire in 1877 which destroyed 2/3 of the town. Leaving St John we punch in French Village and Karen directs us to a local covered bridge. The scenery really is beautiful and what we thought was a remote location soon filled up with people enjoying the little beach. From here we travel to Knightville for an anticipated Bavarian lunch. At least this gets us off the freeways and gives us a look at the countryside. Up hill and down dale - we find the Bavarian restaurant in the middle of nowhere - open Fri, Sat and Sun. (Oops, read the guide properly Donna!!)

Onwards to Moncton for a drop off at the Motel then a drive down to the Hopewell rocks to view the high tide for the day. We dutifully take the before photos as we will return the next day for the low tide.

This area's claim to fame is the biggest difference of high and low tide in the world. Today the difference was 12 metres with the biggest at Spring Neap tides being 14.4 metres. What was quite remarkable was the chocolate colour of the water, indeed one river is called Chocolate River. On the way we call into a "Quilt show" just on a whim and are taken back in time by the ladies of Albert County as they chat to us about Australia and other things in general. As it is late in the day we promised to come back the next day to look at the museum, as they are raising money for the museum. Off to dinner (Scallops, Neville, Lobster and Crab, Donna) in a lovely little pub called the Old Triangle.

The next day we gear up to "walk the ocean floor" at Hopewell Rocks. We take our "after" shots for comparison, the tide variations are quite amazing.

Back on the road we head to PEI and remember our promise to visit the Albert County Museum. Turns out its a little like the Tardis, as our teenage guide takes us all around the buildings of the little village. $6 admission the cheapest we've paid and we get a personalized tour for about 11/2 hours. Another hidden gem. Just as much history as some of the other places that we have been to, a very under rated place.

Except for the quilt show Donna wanted to see we would have driven straight past it. Its great to see these kids in their summer jobs getting to learn about their history. If you would have seen this kid down the street you would have thought he cared for nothing but his skateboard and computer games, but his love of history was quite evident. "Check this out! I think this is cool!" he would say.

So we were off to PEI a little later than expected.

Confederation bridge looms ahead, we have hit PEI (Prince Edward Island). Lots of spuds, wheat and corn. The scenery changes dramatically to rolling hills, divided by strips of narrow vegetation. We divert to a small town called Victoria by the Sea. Why? Because we read it in the Lonely Planet, that's why! The whole town only consists of four blocks! And a pier. Funnily enough, those four blocks in the middle of nowhere are jammed packed. A restaurant, a chocolate shop (which we HAVE to visit) and so we wander down to the pier, where a lobster boat was just docking for its last run for the season. We watched them unload and saw a mammoth lobster - had to be 7 ½ lb easy - about 2-3 kg. Then we spied a pub. We intended to book into the hotel in Charlottetown first, then explore the city for a restaurant but the pub on the pier offered a lobster supper for $22 AND dessert. So where could we get fresher, right? We are the only ones in the restaurant and it is all very low key, we decide to have dinner here.

Well, out come the buckets, bibs, nutcrackers and skinny forks for scrapping out all the hard to get at places, we were set up in no time. Lobster and salad followed by strawberry trifle. Couldn't have had better in a five star restaurant. What a find! Tomorrow we explore PEI, home of Anne of Green Gables.

Friday: With an interest sparked in the First Nations peoples, our first destination today is Lennox Island home of 250 Mi'kmaq (Mig-maw) people. The reserve is quite sparse, but there is a general lack of "gardens" as we think of them in Australia and especially out in the rural areas. No yard fences etc. However we find a craft store with a chatty lady there but unfortunately most of the goods in the shop are bone, leather or wood and we doubt whether we would be able to bring them back home. We pick up a nice pottery piece to remember our visit and to give something to the community as it is made by a local artist. In the Ecotourism centre we have a chat to a local artist and he tells us a few fables and legends. However the tourism potential is underdeveloped, but that may be the way they like it.

We take a little detour on our way to Anne of Green Gables house. We didn't have a picture of the Confederation bridge and although you can easily download a photo and no-one would know the difference, there's nothing like taking a photo yourself. We find a great spot to get the expanse of the bridge. The building of the bridge would have been a massive undertaking and cost. We presume the cost benefit analysis was done at the time. Having seen a story on Super structures about the bridge, it was sort of cool to actually be there.

We drive to Cavendish and after lunch (seafood chowder) we visit the famed green-gabled home, cos that's what you gotta do in PEI!! Must be a great book although neither of us have read it.

A walk around the wharf once we get back to Charlottetown to search for an eatery we come across an Irish Pub, the Old Dublin Inn - Claddagh room and guess what's for dinner? Lobster - natch!

Next day we head for the ferry after a short walk around the historical end down town, it is here that Confederation was born so there is must devoted to that.

As we queue for the ferry to take us back to Nova Scotia, it starts to rain. We drive into the hull. "There's Denise Grant!" says Donna. Remember, we are in PEI, most Canadians don't go there, we are on one of the nine ferries for the day, so what's the chances of seeing someone from Australia that you haven't seen for nine years?! Sure enough it is Denise and Phil Grant who have been teaching in Germany and UK for about 11 ½ years. We sit and chat and this makes the trip go very quickly. We hope to run into them again.

Docking in Nova Scotia, it's still raining as we head for Baddeck. Here we hope to drive the Cabot trail tomorrow, so let's hope that the weather clears up otherwise it won't be much fun.

We wake to cloudy skies with sunny breaks and we have all day to do the trail so there is no rush. Our biggest question is do we go clock-wise the traditional way or anti-clockwise, which is apparently more scenic for the passenger-we stick to tradition. 15 minutes after heading off north we hit showers. Plenty of signs telling us that there is moose but we haven't spied one all trip.

The place is full of more hidden gems as we increase our knowledge of salmon at the Margaree Salmon museum. $2 entry, we can't go wrong. The collection of old fly rods, flies and reels is amazing.

You ever saw those scarecrows standing in a paddock you may have seen in those travel shows? 75 scarecrows standing in a cold bleak square of ground. Saw it once on one of the Billy Connelly shows. It's pretty freaky in real life.

Lunchtime, Cheticamp (Fish and chips) Now Cheticamp is known for it's hookers, noo-o not the street corner kind, rug hookers. Oh boy, do they take it to the limit there. There is a museum showing some of the 400 rugs made by a local, including works of art and portraits of famous people. Hours and hours of work. Very talented. Today Cheticamp is an active fishing village and it has only been accessed by road since 1949. It has a strong Arcadian background as it was here that many came after their expulsion from lands further south.

Right along the Cabot Trail the selling point is the folk art, pottery and woodwork but it is not overwhelmingly touristy, more cottage industries.

Driving through the highlands themselves was a little disappointing as there was thick fog and we could barely see the car in front let alone the beautiful countryside that we were expecting. Near the end we stopped at Lakies Head and spied a few whales and some seals, one of the highlights for the day. We meet up with Denise and Phil for dinner, (Stir fry scallops, Donna, Scallops in white wine sauce, Neville). On to Louisbourg tomorrow. Firstly, Alexander Graham Bell made his Summer home in Baddeck so we visit the Museum devoted to him, his inventions and his life. What an industrious and ingenious man. We are overwhelmed by the collection of his tinkering, our brains bursting with even more information we set the GPS for Louisbourg on a beautiful day.

Fort Louisbourg boasts being the largest recreation site in North America. Although we have been to Forts before, this is huge. A complete town. We spend a few hours there before we need to book in for dinner (Crab supper for both tonight) and wearily go home to ready ourselves for the rest of the town the next day.

At Fort Louisbourg we have the opportunity to have a meal in an inn on the same style as the people of the day - 18th Century people. We eat from pewter dishes and goblets with only a spoon as we are in the commoner's inn. Being in the commoner's inn we share a table with others. As an example of the comradeship among travellers that there can be over here, in the course of our lunch we chat to a couple from Connecticut and all of a sudden the lady gives us her number and tells us to give her a call if we are in the area and she will tell us of the good places to go there. They leave and another couple sit down, they are from Stratford, Ontario and within five minutes of talking we have been invited down for the weekend - wow! (There are some of the opposite experiences too, but we don't remember them!) Fort Louisbourg is great, and we head towards Liscombe Lodge our accommodation for the night. This is a secluded little resort, so secluded in fact it isn't on the GPS and we drive right past it! Anyhow we finally find it, and a captive audience, we have dinner at the resort restaurant. A new experience: Planked Salmon. Salmon is cooked in a Barbecue style on a cedar plank of wood to give it a smoky flavour. I see all sorts of possibilities for this idea once we get back to Bendigo. Should go OK in the pizza oven? Off to Halifax tomorrow, there has been quite heavy rain today so hopefully the Maritimes will put on some sunshine for our last day.

Last day for this trip and what an enjoyable trip it was. We learnt lots, ate lots of seafood, home to Ottawa, touching base, a big wash up of clothes and off to the next adventure, New York in three days! Oh and what's on the Menu? Steak!!