So the trip across the Malawi border was relatively non traumatic (all things are relative).I got on the dala dala at Mbeya, had a little discussion with some men who insisted I buy a ticket, which happened to be 1500Tsh more than I was expecting to pay (which is less than £1 but these things are all about principles). So I stood my ground and said I'd just get off the bus and get the next one - suddenly I didn't need a ticket and the fair was the 3500Tsh I was expecting. So I sat on the cramped bus and headed for the Malawi border, I had to change busses in a town called Tukuyu (even though the lovely men at Mbeya had promised me this was a direct bus). It was completely hassle free though and the new bus was less cramped (only one passenger per seat). Eventually the bus pulled in at a market type area - I wasn't sure if this is where I was getting off but then lots (and lots) of people were shouting at me to get off for the border so I complied. Managed to get my rucksack out of the bus just as it was pulling off and then I was surrounded by people trying to offer me a bicycle taxi to the border (you might be thinking as I was when I heard the term "bicycle taxi" that it would be a rickshaw type thing but no, it is a lift on the back of a bicycle). So I sat on the back of a bicycle with my big rucksack on my bag we headed the 2km down to the border. The border crossing was hassle free, it felt quite strange having left Tanzania and crossed the border but not yet having reached the Malawi border - where was I at that point? What happens if you commit a crime here?! Pretty soon I had cleared immigration and was now in Malawi - country number 2!

I got a share taxi from the border to Karonga. Fuel in Malawi is really expensive - about the same as home even though the average annual salary is something like $300 per year! So I guess it shouldn't be a massive surprise that my taxi ran out of petrol as we were nearing Karonga - although nothing was really explained to me, the driver took off in another car, the other passengers got a different taxi and left and I was left with the car all my bags and a man who either didn't speak English or was just ignoring me. Anyway after a while the driver came back with petrol and we continued on the journey.

From Karonga I got a bus to Mzuzu (they showed the transporter 3 - well showed most of it then stopped it and started it from the beginning again so I never got to see the end). I met an American girl (Monica) on the bus who has been living in Malawi and was headed in the same direction so she offered to show me the way. We got a share taxi to Nkhata Bay, Monica was phoning up to cancel a room as some of her friends couldn't make it, I asked her to book a dorm for me - but the owner said I could have the cancelled double room for the price of a dorm - result!

The Mayoka village in Nkhata bay is one of the best places I have ever been. It's right on the lake, well maintained, really beautiful and cheap (£4 per night), yet again - result! So on the Friday night I just chilled in the resort and joined in the all you can eat bbq! There were quite a lot of backpackers there, people are really friendly so it was really nice just to chill and hang out! The following day I went on a boat trip where we saw a fish eagle, jumped off some rocks into the lake, snorkled and played beach games, and enjoyed a couple of beers while doing it - awesome! I just chilled in the hostel on Sat night, had curry and chilled out. By Sunday I needed to take it easy after all that exertion(!) so sat around and then went on a sunset cruise. There were quite a few of us and it was a lot of fun, although the engine cut out and the captain had to paddle us to shore (he only had one paddle). During my stay at Mayoka disaster struck yet again - the flip flops I'd bought in Iringa broke! So I took myself down to the market and picked up a particularly stylish pair plasticy of "sport sandals"

So Monday the Ferry that runs on the lake (once a week in each direction) was coming and heading for the south and I decided that I would use it to get to Monkey bay. So I went into town to get cash and check emails etc, then I just sat around chilling waiting for the ferry to come in - I wasn't really ready to leave and there were a group of people organising to go to a secluded resort further up the lake, so after a LOT of debating I decided to stay - Southern Malawi will have to wait until the next trip! I really struggled with the decision but you have to do what feels right at the time. So I took it easy on Monday night (tired after all the debating with myself). Tuesday was another boat cruise (actually the same one I did on Sat but with different people). Once again it was a lot of fun and in the evening we chilled out with some beers preparing for our visit to Ruarwe the next day, further up the lakeshore. An isolated lakeside lodge, accessible only by boat (or an 8 hour trek), with no electricity and nothing else around - advertised as lake paradise, sounds good eh?!