Lake Taupo is huge and was created by a volcanic eruption millions of years ago....anyway, enough of the history lesson. We stayed in Rainbow Lodge backpackers, slightly worried about hippies but it was OK and we had a TV in the room so I could watch Ugly Betty. Lots of flies in the kitchen though. Backpackers can be a dirty bunch.

Now we are in real Maori country, the places are becoming harder to pronounce, try Orakei Korako, a thermal area where we saw bubbling mud pools, geysers and hot springs, it was quite beautiful. The cafe also did the best carrot cake I've ever tasted.

We also took a sailing trip on "the Barbary" to see some Maori carvings in the rock by the side of the lake, we presumed they were old but it turns out they were done in 1976! I'm bloody older than them! We met a few people on the trip, including a couple of English newlyweds who have got to be the most embarrassing example of the English Traveller, I quote, "The first man is space was Uri Gellar....wasn't it?" They then proceeded to tell all the Americans how terrible England was, slagged off Liverpool (they came from Hampshire) and told everone exactly how much they have spent on their round -the -world trip. They had done pretty much the same as us but in a 2 man tent so I told them we spent as much as them and stayed in hotels all the way and watched them choke on their complimentary biscuit. Tight b******s.

Next day saw us heading for Tongariro National Park which for all you LOTR fans is host to "Mount Doom" otherwise known as Mount Ruapehu. We went up on a ski lift and freezed our bums off, looked over the balcony of the cafe at the top and came down on the ski lift again. Not quite the same as skiing but no snow at this time of year. It last erupted in 1995 so we weren't for hanging around.

We also saw Huka falls, Stephen bought a new set of clippers for 10 dollars from Kmart (cheaper than a haircut) and I nominate Ugly Betty for Prime Minister.