Day Thirty Three - August 8th, 2013
Airlie Beach to Bingil Bay
After a wonderful night of sleep on solid ground, I was woken by Elly (as always) who was ready to start the day. We were packed and ready to leave by 8.30, and set off on the now familiar Bruce Highway. We really weren't sure where we might end up, but decided to just drive until we found somewhere to stop for the night. We wouldn't be able to make it all the way to Cairns in one hit, but wanted to get as far as possible in order to have a full-ish day there tomorrow.
The landscape was again vast ad sparse, with the odd group of cattle dotted about. I really felt for the black ones as the sun was already beating down by 9am. It tuned out to be a scorching hot winters day. The dust was thrown up at the side of the road by vehicles joining the highway from farms. We passed a giant mango and crossed over multiple creeks and rivers on the drive, and enjoyed the names: Didgeridoo Lagoon, Banister Bog, Waistcoat Creek, Sullivan's Swamp and Herbert's River to mention a few! A lot had dried up and were hard to imagine flowing with water, especially in the we season when levels rise so dramatically. The roadworks still regularly interupted our progress, and really hampered the journey. We also saw the police patrolling for the first time, and saw two people pulled over. With the straight stretches of tarmac, it must be a popular speeding area.
We stopped at Thuringowa Bluewater National Park for a spot of lunch. It had a free camping ground on the outskirts of the park, and we found a shady spot to make our tuna and sweetcorn sandwiches. I don't think I'd feel terribly confident staying overnight due to the 'Attention - Crocodiles' sign at the entrance of the camping grounds. Elly wasn't phased - I caught him strolling down to the creek as I came out the loo. After a rather snappy dressing down from me, I hope he won't do that again. We passed a couple more of the signs crossing various creeks - clearly they run rampant in this corner of the globe!
Once back on the road we crossed many of the cane train railway crossings which we are gradually getting used to, and saw a number of eagles swooping overhead. There really is wildlife around every corner.
With the car becoming unbearably hot, we slapped on factor 30 to block the strong sun, and stopped in Ingham to raid Wooly's and take full advantage of their air conditioning. We picked up supper for tonight in case we arrive somewhere too late to go out again, filled up our water bottles and rejoined the rat race on the national highway, using cold red peppers to cool us down! We had a long slog uphill, and drank in the spectacular views. As we descended back to sea level and drove parallel to Cardwell State Forest, we saw several fired burning up on the hill. Assuming it was controlled fires, we drove on unconcerned. It was only as we passed several burning trees and logs right at the side of the road - unattended - that we started to question if they were really deliberate. I can't imagine the risk in the height of summer, it must be terrifying.
As we passed through Tully and into Mission Beach, signs for cassowaries became plentiful, showing it as a conservation areas. These big emu like birds apparently live in abundance in this area. The gender rolls are reversed, and the males stay with the eggs and subsequent chicks. They become very territorial, especially when they are guarding young, and are quite dangerous. Hopefully we won't come across any when bush walking! We are really in the tropics now, banana plants, with the fruits bagged up to protect them from the birds and elements in yellow and blue sacks line the road.
We came into Mission Beach and true to find a campsite. The information centre was shut, and we missed out at the first campsite we tried ($19 unpowered site). The group before us bagged the last spot! We tried another just over the road, but at $37 a night we thought we could do better. Time wasn't on our side however, as it had already gone 5pm. We drove 4k out to Bingil Bay, and found a council run campground down a dirt track. Obviously a great place to stay - wry cheap and right on the beach. However, only 7 spots available, and all taken. Drat. I'd read about a treetops hostel in Lonely Planet, and found it eventually! Perched high on the hill amongst the trees, it's quiet and peaceful, and best of all, had space for us! $15 each, so still pretty pricey, but its beautiful here and different from all the thee campsites we've stayed at. It's more of a hostel with space for a few tents, with what looks like a lot of semi permanent guests. We set up our small single skinned tent and set about making supper. We were both grouchy after a long day in the car, and needed food in our bellies. Stuffed peppers with couscous. Quick and delicious! The hostel is incredible, it really feels like we're in the rainforest, which I suppose we are. The signs reading "rainforest meets reef, 800m" probably gave that away. It's all wooden furniture, with hammocks, a pool and a big screen outside. There's loads of crockery to use, so we've had our first meal on china plates (instead of eating off our plastic chopping boards) and using proper cutlery in a month! Luxurious!
We're off to enjoy the free wifi with an episode of Gavin and Stacey, and complementary brekkie in the morning. Goodnight from Treetops!