We left Istanbul at 06:00 for our drive to Goreme. Waking up at that time is easy when you are staying in a place that is spitting distance of the Blue Mosque and a stone's throw from the Red Mosque (although I suggest that you don't try either, or you'll find yourself in custody before you can say 'Midnight Express'). We reached Goreme after a twelve hour drıve from İstanbul through some pretty stunning scenery - lush rolling hills with jagged snowy mountains in the background. Goreme is in the heart of Cappadocia, which is is central Turkey, and the countryside is made up of spectacular limestone pinnacles. We reached it just as the sun was setting and it brought out the colours in the rock. We are staying in a cave (as it's pretty cold outside - we're quite high up at 1,230 m according to my altimeter). Today we toured the region, looking at cave cities and underground cities. I'll post the pictures when İ find an internet cafe with a USB connection). The underground cities were spectacular. There are three of them. We visited the middle one and the other two are 4km and 12km away. There are tunnels connecting each of the cities, which is quite impressive given the age of the cities (we were told that they were built by Hittites - ı.e. before Alexander the Great rolled through on his way to India). Tonight it's beer, belly dancing and whirling dervishes.