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We stayed at Cliffside resort in Panglao island, a lovely poolside room and dreamy sunset views. The room came with free use of a manual motorbike. Cliffside was a 45 minute drive from Tagbilaran on Bohol across the Panglao bridge. The nearby resort was little Germany with the Biergarten and Helmut's restaurant. We loaded up on currywurst, freshly cooked pie and chips and sauerkraut. Breakfast was taken at a local family restaurant called Ging Ging's. They made us omelette, toast and coffee every day. Reggae versions of Christmas hymns, carols and songs were belting out to get us in the mood for the big Christmas build up (30 degrees and October - I think not!). It really was just like having breakfast at someone's house, chickens pecked about round the tables, kids and toddlers of various ages played nearby and the Dad strutted round in just his Calvin Kleins at 08:30am. We headed back to Bohol to explore more of the island on our motorbike. We had to negotiate a 1km rocky dirt track from the hotel to the main road every time so the tyres were hammered. We explored the north coast of Bohol, which could be described as the 2013 earthquake sightseeing tour. Most old wooden shacks were in tact, but many new concrete homes had partly collapsed. 300 year old Spanish churches crumbled to nothing - an act of God hey? A year later and the reconstruction information banners are up announcing the projects, but only work on the roads/bridges seems underway. We stopped at the Punta Cruz watchtower at Maribojoc, its top had wobbled off. We read an information board at the site which told us about the lifting of the seabed nearby. The seabed had lifted as high as 3ms in some places drying out the coral and extending the shores. We went down to explore, such a shame that the coral is ruined. We later explored further inland to discover Mag-aso falls, which were amazing (see photos). We saw a lizard skipping across the water's surface at the base of the falls - too quick to get a photo, sorry. We stopped at nearby Antiquera for some sweet scotch-style pancakes. On another day, we got a flat tyre on the way to seeing the tarsiers again, thankfully there are lots of Vulcanising places along the roadsides. Today, however, they must have been on their regional Christmas meal or something. Every time we stopped at one, we were told they we not in. A couple of kilometres on we found one. It was good timing as the heavens broke and we got to shelter under the eaves of the workshop shack. A patch job to repair two holes and we paid the charge around £1.50. We arrived without further incident at the tarsier sanctuary and saw another two little fellas. One was at Paul's eye level, so more good photos. As we were driving and turning right out of the sanctuary entrance we fell with the bike into a ditch. It was pretty slow and we landed on soft wet grass so not too bad an incident, but bad luck comes in threes so what would be next? One morning we also got a flat tyre on the way to breakfast. I got off to walk the remaining 300m. Paul drove to Ging Ging's. One of the young lads from the family offered to take the bike to be fixed, whilst we had breakfast - great service! Our last venture back to Bohol was to revisit the Chocolate hills for the third time! We hadn't anticipated how long a drive it was - those buses bomb along to get there in 90 minutes from Tagbilaran. Half way there and the heavens opened again, we took shelter at a someone's thatched bike shelter and listened to the family inside the nearby house do karaoke. It must be rainy Saturday afternoon entertainment in the Philippines. They take it very seriously apparently and laughing is a real no-no. Terrible singers! We decided to head back without one last look at the Chocolate hills. On the way back we got another flat tyre - a new inner tube this time. We sat under the shelter whilst it was fixed. The family were doing karaoke inside! £1.70 to get it fixed this time and we were on our way. The weather was much better back on Panglao island so resting by the pool was the best way of spending our remaining days. We tried to access the local white sand beaches, but the local hotel resorts have subsumed them, blocking any public access - boo! Next we took an hour long ferry ride from Tubigon on Bohol to our final destination of Cebu. I'm glad we didn't stay more than two days. Cebu is a scaled down version of Manila and a bit rough. We got out to see the Yap Sandiego ancestral home - a wooden 17th Chinese settlement house. It was crammed with dark wood furniture and antiques. We also visited Magellan's cross and the cathedral. Magellan claimed the islands for Spain. He died on Cebu and his crew returned to Spain, completing the first circumnavigation of the earth. At Cebu, he persuaded the ruler Rajah Humabon and his Queen to convert to Christianity. They tried to leverage Magellan to defeat their enemy Lapu Lapu. Magellan tried his old 'conversion to Christianity' techniques and Lapu Lapu told him where to shove it. Magellan then led an attack on Lapu Lapu's men and he was hit by a spear and then promptly surrounded and finished off. Funnily, the resistance fighter (Lapu Lapu) trying to preserve his nation's culture and killing the oppressor doesn't get a favourable mention in Philippine history, instead they've built a monument to the colonising, imperialist scumbag Magellan. Historic rant over, have a look at our photos and videos.
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