As we sped down the bumpy track in the back of the ute, we could see the tsunami wave rushing into the bay of Aganoa. Within minutes villages and holiday resorts in Samoa were levelled to the ground and washed out to sea.

The day of 29th September 2009 started pretty much like any other day. Ollie was planning on a early morning surf with a few other guys from the Aganoa Surf Resort but had decided to sleep in instead. At about 6.45am we decided to grab a morning coffee and sit on a bench a few meters from the sea watching the surfers;

Ollie: "Shay, stop shaking the bench!"
Shay: "I'm not shaking it!"

We then realised that we were experiencing an earthquake.
　
Shay: "Jeez, I hope we're not going to get caught up in another Thailand debarcle?"
　
About a minute passed so we relaxed and watched a kiwi couple paddle out to join the other surfers. As they neared the end of the reef we noticed that the lady nearly didn't make it over the now exposed reef rocks and before our very eyes the sea seemed to disappear; it was getting sucked out!
　
Shay: "Hmmmm... I don't think that is supposed to happen... do you think we're going to have a tsunami?"
Ollie: "Yes, that's definitely not a low tide?"
Shay: "Do you think we should maybe start running for higher ground?"
Ollie: "Wonder if I'll be safe up this tree?"
Shay: "Nah, I really think we should start running"
　
A Tsunami at our Heels
　
We continued like this for a few more precious minutes, until we heard a engine rev behind us and the frantic resort manager, Keith, yell at us to jump into the back of the pick-up. We didn't need to be told twice. As we sped down the gravel driveway which hugged the coastline we could see the sea had been turned into raging white water rapids heading straight towards us.

"Oh my god, the ocean has never been like this, never ever!!" Sebastian, the surf guide was screaming hysterically from the back of the ute. We looked at each other in panic finding it hard to believe that it was actually happening. Surely this sort of thing wouldn't happen to us? The other two girls in the back of the ute had other things on their minds... it was their boyfriends out there in the surf.

"What about the surfers? What will happen to them?"
　
Rochelle and Kelly were both pale. We tried to reassure them that they were probably in the safest place; away from the shore but even while saying the words Shay was thanking God that Ollie had decided to be lazy that morning.

We were dropped off up at a Samoan family's place a few kilometres inland and Keith sped back to try to help the surfers and other resort guest who were still asleep in their fales. We then had a painful wait to see if the others had survived. Rumours were already circulating around the fale. The toilet block from the resort had apparently been washed up to the road over a kilometre away, villagers were dead in the plantations and there was still no word on the surfers. We both started trying to come to terms with the fact that we had lost everything; all our photos from our Central American journey, passports, credit cards, cameras, laptop, Xmas gifts... all gone. Then there was the possibility that we would be sent back to our countries of origin due to having no identification. Shay was travelling on her British passport and Ollie on a Norwegian, would that mean we couldn't carry on as planned to New Zealand? A lot of questions were running through our minds.
　
Tempting Fate
　
Finally, after what seemed like forever Keith came back with the surfers and other guests. They were all a little shell shocked but happy to be alive. Chris, a surfer from Wellington had been told to grab what ever he could and get to the ute before the next wave struck so he had found his wallet and a surfboard fin in the jungle behind his battered fale. It wasn't until later on that we questioned him on his choice of items to salvage... a surfboard fin? He said it was panic in the heat of the moment.
　
The surfers filled us in on their odd experience. They had not felt the earthquake and had only noticed that something was amiss when they saw the reef suck dry and realised they were being sucked out to sea; it was impossible to paddle against it. They didn't feel the tsunami passing under them, but had seen the wave washing in over the beach and onto land, into the beach side fales. They eventually were able to ride one of the wave surges from the tsunami into shore only to find the surf camp partly wrecked and empty of people.
　
It was now 9am, the wave had struck just after 7am and we were all very curious to the outcome of our gear. Latest news was that another tsunami wave, even bigger than the first two, was due to hit at 10.30am. We begged Lani, Keith s wife, to take us back to the resort so we could save what we could. She reluctantly agreed and as we drove back down to the coast we all were very aware that we could be tempting fate. We were relieved to see that amazingly, our fale was still standing. Rocks had been tossed around, smashing window shutters and the porches and beach side fales had been smashed to smithereens. For once we were thankful that our fale was right at the back and on higher ground. All our stuff was sopping wet but the electronics had miraculously been saved by their cases. Our laptop with all our pictures survived along with our passports and credit cards. We had been praying for a miracle and it had happened. We all quickly moved our backpacks to the main fale which was on higher ground than the rest and grabbed our passports and valuables to take with us. We then hurried out of there before the next possible wave hit.
　
For the rest of the day we watched the Australian news on CBN, and only then did reality hit to the seriousness of what had happened. We watched as they showed pictures of resorts we had recently stayed at.
　
Lalomanu Lost

We had been at Lalomanu in the Taufua Beach Fales only two days prior the tsunami. Lalomanu had a beautiful beach and we had spent our time snorkelling in the crystal clear water, having communal dinners and drinks with the other fale guests and enjoyed our first lively Fia Fia night performed by the Lalomanu children and locals. Our open fale had been only three metres from the edge of the ocean and every night we had fallen asleep to the sound of the sea lapping against the shore. We had enjoyed our stay so much at Taufua that we were considering staying for another couple of nights. We now shudder to think of the consequences that decision may have made.
　
The tsunami had totally flattened Lalomanu village and our resort, Taufua Beach Fales, had been completely levelled to the ground. The Taufua family themselves have lost 13 family members in this tragedy. Our condolences go out to them. A lot of the people we had met only days previous had, had to run for their lives and had lost everything except what they were standing up in; some lost more than that. We had hoped that they'd received a better warning than what we had got. Apparently there was suppose to be sirens and text alerts but neither had happened. Ironically, the Samoan government had only just been practising emergency evacuations for situations just like this, but none of the safety measures which were put in place had worked as planned.
　
Salani Surf Resort Wiped Out
　
Another resort which we had stayed at was the Salani Surf resort. Salani was beautifully set within colourful gardens, with comfortable riverside fales. We were saddened to hear that the whole place had been destroyed but then relieved when we saw Nick, the Australian manager, on TV saying that they had managed to get everyone out in time.
　
We had been the only guests at Salani when we where there. The surf guides had taken Ollie out by boat everyday to the left and right reef break. One day we were taken over to the other side of the island to a secret break with crystal clear water in a beautiful bay surrounded by dense green jungle. A long walk and paddle gave Ollie, Jason the surf guide and his mate from LA, Eric, glassy hollow, head high, barrelling waves, all to themselves. At Salani, other than the daily surf session, we had spent the days relaxing on the deck of our cabin on stilts, being spoilt with the fantastic food (including the unforgettable daily tuna sashimi), and going for kayak paddles up the Salani river.
　
The Sa'moana Miracle
　
The Sa'moana, our first resort, was in the village of Salamumu just down the coast from Salani and miraculously was spared from major damage. Thankfully everyone there had got out in time and the beautiful resort was not completely ruined. At the Sa'moana Beach Resort we had immediately hit it off with the managers, staff and other guests. Our luxury fale included a beautiful outdoor bathroom made with lava rock walls and surrounded in palms and ferns. Everything was laid on at Sa'moana, we had kayaks available for our pleasure and we had spent a few hours kayaking down the beach to deserted coves and lagoons. The resort had its own private reef break so Ollie and the other surfers paddled out daily for their surfing fix. The resort also organised daily jaunts around the island so we had joined in on one to visit the nearby Togitogiga waterfall and swim through the To Sua ocean trench at Vavau.
　
A little after midday we were told that the tsunami warning was cancelled so we could return to the resort. We returned to Aganoa and surveyed the damage; we had been very lucky. The resort was tucked within a small cove and that had protected it from the full force of the wave. We would have received half of the force that Lalomanu and Salani had received and still fales and large rocks had been tossed around like toys and ended up in the jungle behind the resort. We were told that we would have to stay at another hotel for the night as the Samoan police were not taking any chances with the tourists, so we packed up and headed for the Jetover in Salelologa.
　
The next day we boarded the 10am ferry and crossed the short stretch between the islands of Savai'i and Upolo. It wasn't long till we could see the devastation which came with the tsunami wave; domestic debris, parts of peoples houses, toys and other artefacts bobbed around in the now disturbingly calm ocean. It was a sobering sight and made us realise, once again, that we were extremely lucky to be alive. A lot of people had lost everything, including family and loved ones. At the airport we were surrounded by other kiwi's who were still wearing their bikini's or pyjama's, whatever they were wearing when they had been forced to run for their lives. Some were battered and bruised, but most just seemed happy to be alive.
　
As our aircraft took off later that evening we were relieved to be leaving and heading to the safety of New Zealand and to Shay's awaiting family, but as we took off into the sky we also felt a pang of guilt to be leaving this beautiful and once happy island when they were in so much need of help. RIP all the victims involved in this terrible tragedy.