Our flight from Kuching in Sarawak to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah (both the Malaysian part of Borneo) was the most convenient means of getting to the Philippines, courtesy of Air Asia.However, our time in SE Asia being limited and delays with connecting flights meant that we couldn't spend as long as we would have liked in Borneo.We had contemplated doing the Mt Kinabalu climb but E's hip has been causing him a bit of a problem and we both felt it would be too much of a risk to try to do a two day trek.So, Kota Kinabalu (KK) and Sabah (previously known as North Borneo) were relegated to an overnight stop.But first impressions of KK when we landed were that it deserves more time - so maybe we will return.

For some time M has been on the lookout for a specific pair of sandals (having tried them on in Alice Springs in Australia).KK had a number of shops selling a wider range of outdoor gear than other parts of Malaysia and Indonesia but an early evening search proved unsuccessful.Food beckoned.We found an interesting and early introduction to our next destination, the Philippines - a tapas bar where we had a selection of tapas and some Spanish wine. Not too bad.Our flight the next day was 'retimed' - which in fact meant a delay of two hours.But we eventually arrived at Clark, the former US air base in the Philippines late in the early evening.We'd taken time to book a hotel that we were comfortable with because some of the hotels in this area are a bit 'dubious'.The Oasis Hotel was in fact a good choice - friendly, clean, comfortable and welcoming - although the flight delay meant that we missed the opportunity of a dip in their swimming pool.

We'd been in touch with a car hire firm and had planned that the next morning we'd have an early start.Typically of us we were slow in rising and getting to breakfast, which meant we were behind schedule before we even found the car hire place on the main road just outside the hotel compound.Clark is a funny place with lots of fenced compounds, security gates, guards and in particular is a Special Economic Zone (this emanates from the withdrawal of the US in 1991). But it was good that Randy at VIP Car Hire was ready for us and had the car tanked up and waiting for us.What he hadn't told us however was that he we needed to pay in cash.So, as we were cashless, he told E where the nearest ATM was (about 20 minutes drive) and agreed that E could use the car to get there.The thing was that E had to remember that the Philippines drive on the right-hand side of the road!Randy's directions on how to get there were good, but he forgot to tell E the route back!About an hour later E finally re-appeared and we were able to finalise the hire arrangements and head off.There was, however, a wonderful benefit from E's unexpected ATM adventure.While at the shopping mall (where the ATM was to be found) E ventured into a large department store to see the very sandals M had been looking for!He made the mistake of telling M about it, so instead of an immediate departure there was yet another delay as M insisted we head straight back to the mall for some essential shopping - she bought two pairs!!It was a bit confusing trying to find our way out of Clark (going round in circles springs to mind!) but eventually we were on the road north.

We'd tentatively planned to get to the far north-west corner of the island of Luzon where there is some interesting history around the Spanish occupation and the former President Marcos's homeland (Imelda and M may have an interest in common!).However, driving north through busy, congested, narrow roads was very slow going and we soon realised that we would have to review our plans.We'd decided that our first stop would be the city of Baguio situated high in the mountains of the Cordillera. With the late start and busy traffic we knew we'd be hard pressed to make it by nightfall.On the way we came across a very serious accident where a huge articulated lorry had toppled over on a bend and nearly crashed into a house.It was quite frightening because, as in most of Asia, people live their lives by the roadside - sitting watching the world go by, walking their children in their arms, kids playing, selling fruit and veg, drying corn and rice etc.There was a crown of considerably concerned locals and we hope no-one was injured, but it was an eye-opener on what can happen on such treacherous roads.What makes it even more apparent is that every few kilometres there are signs saying 'Accident Prone Area' - but in fact there are too many and in the end you just no longer notice them or take heed of the message.

As we headed further north we came across stall after stall selling crabs - in an area that's famous for its crab festival.A little further on and higher into the hills the stalls were selling rice wine.The mountains were impressive and as we got nearer Baguio the landscape became more and more attractive and (thankfully) the roads quieter.We think we might have a missed a turning somewhere (the road signs not being the best) and our estimated distance to Baguio turned to be much further than it actually was.As we continued our climb we watched the sun going down behind the clouds and the mountains - below us - and we finally rolled into the surprisingly large city of Baguio in the dark.E had done a remarkable job of driving in difficult conditions but as we hit the city centre, not surprisingly, he'd had enough.Ahead of us we saw the lights of the Hotel Veniz, we pulled up outside, M dashed inside and checked in.It wasn't too bad a place and we headed out to find a little bar where we had some beers, food and wine.It was then back to the hotel to watch the last two episodes of the final series (no. 6) of 24, which we'd started to watch over a year ago in Oz.

Next morning it was back on the road north but on this occasion we had to travel the zig-zag road down the mountain.Reaching the coast just north of San Fernando in La Union province we decided to stop at the beach.As we drove into one of the many busy small towns along the route we encountered what we at first thought was a parade or wedding - the cars and people were in white and there were white balloons everywhere.However, as we drew alongside we realised that it was in fact a funeral.We're glad we'd slowed down to pass and had therefore shown some respect, albeit inadvertently.When we'd picked up the car Randy had warned us that we might be stopped by LTOs (local authority transport officials) who try to extract 'fines' from unsuspecting road users - he told us not to stop and we should keep going.On our road north we encountered many such checkpoints but have so far managed to avoid being stopped.Another aspect of our journey were the roadworks where they simply rip up half the carriageway leaving an extremely narrow strip of tarmac to negotiate.Whilst the roadworks are ostensibly controlled by traffic lights at either end not all road users pay any attention, particularly the motorbikes and motorised tricycles!

Tourism in the Philippines is somewhat sparse and fragile and recommendations are therefore unpredictable.We therefore decided to test things for ourselves and were lucky enough to find really good accommodation right on the beach at San Juan.P&T Final Option (www.finaloptionbeach.com.ph) is a most unusual name, but it was a really good place to stay - clean rooms, comfortable, a bar and restaurant, excellent swimming pool - all that we needed and where we spent a very pleasant few hours enjoying the sun. Next morning we were on our way again heading to Vigan, possibly the main attraction for us in the Philippines. Once again the roads were busier than expected, although a lot quieter than further south, and the scenery was most attractive - passing through rural communities, fields of vegetables and rice, interesting Spanish style churches - all with the mountains as a backdrop on one side and glimpses of the South China Sea on the other.

Turning off the main road into Vigan we soon found ourselves smack in the centre of the town at Plaza Salcedo.Very attractive and very Spanish it was too.Vigan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is one of the best preserved examples of a European trading town in Asia and it represents a unique fusion of Asian building design and construction with European colonial architecture and planning.What this meant for us was that it was like being back in Europe in a small town in the 'real' Spain.We drove around looking at a few hotels and finally opted for El Juliana because it was cheaper and had a swimming pool.After checking we set off right away to visit a couple of museums that were only open that day and to explore the town.Most of the sites are around Plaza Salcedo and the first museum we visited was Nueva Segobia which is located within the Archbishop's Palace next to St Paul's Cathedral.With limited time we were disappointed that the museum wasn't open, but someone sent for the guy who had the keys.It was interesting enough and gave us an insight in to the diocesan structure in this part of the island.

We had another museum to visit that afternoon because, according to the guidebook, it wasn't open at the weekend.However the location of the Ayala Museum, housed in a former mansion belonging to Father Jose Burgos, was not as indicated on the guidebook map.Consequently we had a bit of trouble finding it, looking as we were in completely the wrong area!With only limited time left to get there before it closed (as we understood it from the guidebook) we quickly crossed over Plaza Salcedo, which gives an excellent view of St Paul's Cathedral with the mountains behind, where we found someone who sent us in the right direction.The museum, in an old Spanish style mansion, had lots of interesting history and artefacts about this part of the country, and at only 10 Pesos (roughly 10 pence) really good value for money. The cathedral then beckoned and we spent some time just sitting soaking up the ambience and watching locals at prayer.We enjoyed wandering round the narrow old streets admiring the wonderful architecture and the occasional glimpse inside some of the grander buildings.One thing that struck us was how few of the buildings have been preserved or restored and just how many are falling into serious disrepair.It certainly is very full of character but you can see that it's an enormous task for the town, government and UNESCO.The situation is made much harder by the lack of tourists and the income that this industry would generate.There's a distinct lack of facilities such as hotels, cafes, bars and restaurants but you can understand that it's a bit 'chicken and egg' - can the town attract tourists when it hasn't got whole range of facilities and attractions that modern visitors expect? But we did find a couple of places for a drink and a very decent meal at Cafe Leona. It was then back to our quirky Hotel El Juliana (somewhat like an old Spanish Parador with huge rooms, large dark furniture, wide halls and staircases) by calesa (pony and trap).

E M xxx