After a few uneventful days when we went about what has now become our routine, day-to-day lifestyle we packed up and headed away to Northland. The reason we had to pack was that we'd agreed we needed a full week to explore this part of the country and therefore came to a very reasonable agreement with Carl (the owner of our motel) that we would vacate the room and wouldn't have to pay rent. So, with some of our belongings in storage in the motel but still a very full car, we set off for the Bay of Islands. Pam's cousin, Tricia (whom we'd previously met in the UK some years ago), lives in a small town north of Auckland and we contacted her earlier about paying a visit. We thought me might pop in as we were passing on our way north but we've now agreed to visit her in August. With an unbroken journey, and despite wet weather, road works and typical winding NZ roads, we made good time on our journey towards Paihia where we'd intended to stop for a few nights.Whenever we can we assess and alter plans as we go along and while driving north we decided instead to turn off the main highway and take the scenic 'cul-de-sac' to Russell where we thought we would stay a couple of nights. Russell is one of the most historic and picturesque towns in NZ and lies at the end of a long peninsula. There are only two routes to Russell: one is the 70 km scenic, winding road that we took and the other is the main highway to [ ] and then a short ferry journey to [ ] the followed by a short drive. There is also a direct foot passenger service between Russell and Paihia over the other side of the inlet. We found ourselves a very comfortable and spacious motel room in the excellent Hananui Lodge right down by the shore in the historic heart of the town. A quick wander round town while there was still daylight was followed by something hot - a good soak in the motel's private spa at 5.30 (we did this at the same time every day). We felt really comfortable in the Hananui Lodge - it was so clean, well equipped and spankingly maintained (shame it didn't have internet but there was a handy internet cafe just over the road). It's strange how some places just have the right ambience for us and make us both feel right at home. Hananui Lodge fitted the bill perfectly and the owners, John and Rongo were just lovely and couldn't do enough for us. John even gave us a box of fresh local oysters on the morning we left because he'd noticed that we liked them.But back to our time in Russell which was charming and in a lovely setting. After our first visit to the spa pool, we headed out for a meal. NZ seems to keep most of its sights and services going throughout the winter and it makes for a pleasurable experience because you know you can do things wherever you end up. After our first visit to the motel spa we went out in search of a bite to eat. Along the waterfront are many old buildings and just past the pier was the Marlborough Hotel, an old and reliable establishment. It looked busy with something going on and as we hovered around looking for a way in, we were greeted by the barman. The hotel had a live classical music evening with pianists, a guitarist, violinist, etc and we enjoyed a wonderful free concert (and it was good) with a splendidly cooked and presented meal of fresh fish and mussels. This was certainly a surprise and a treat.While we were in the area, we had ideas of going out on the water and from Russell there was a half day trip around the Bay of Islands, and out as far as Piercy Island (with the 'world famous' hole in the rock). So the following day with mixed weather we had a really enjoyable time seeing the many islands, learning the history of the place (including Captain Cook's landing on Roberton Island), with highlights being a walk on Urupukapuka Island, seeing a flock of Pacific Blue Penguins and a pod of 4 of Bottlenose Dolphins that played with the boat. Next morning we packed up - and after a trip up Flagstaff Hill - returned to Hananui Lodge. We'd enjoyed Russell and the Lodge so much that it seemed to be a perfect base for a few days. We had a full week after all and we could do what we want!! Apart from Flagstaff Hill, which gives wonderful views across the Bay and with its flag depicting the peace between Maori and the white settlers, Russell has a few more historic delights, for instance Christ Church, the oldest church in NZ, and the Pompallier Museum with its original printing presses, leather tannery and book binding machinery, all in working order. We spent a leisurely day exploring the area, including a walk to Long Beach where we looked at shells, flowers, gannets diving for fish and generally taking in the sea breezes. This is what life should be about - we don't have to be dashing all over the place all the time.One of the main things this area is important for is the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. This is the birthplace of modern NZ with the signing of the Treaty between the Maori iwi (tribes) and the British. Waitangi is just over the water from Russell so we took to the water again when we caught the small ferryboat over to Paihia. From there it is a very pleasant, couple of kilometre walk to the Treaty Grounds. There is a long and very interesting story attached to this period in NZ's history but we were here to visit the site, take in a tour and we were also fortunate to get a Maori cultural performance, which we hadn't expected. The grounds are very pleasant and contain the actual location where the treaty was signed (marked by a flagpole) and the Treaty House (which was the home of James Busby who was sent by the British from NSW, Australia to manage the European settlement). Our tour with Wil, whose Maori ancestry is linked to this precise site (he was born and raised in house in the grounds and gave up medicine to be a leader/elder in his local community) was excellent. He gave us a very knowledgeable and honest insight into Maori history, even up to today's difficulties between tribes, as well as the relationship with the Europeans. The bonus of the cultural performance was a real gem. We were the only ones there and with E having to play the part of the visiting 'chief', for part of the show M was the only one in the audience. We were treated to Maori warrior displays (similar to the haka but this time with weapons), song and dance and games. It was all thoroughly enjoyable and showed what a rich and vibrant culture the Maori people have. We've learned a couple of interesting facts in our time in this area. We've already mentioned James Busby, who was originally from Edinburgh. Well, he is recognised as the father of viniculture in Australia having established the first vineyard in the Hunter Valley area. So, the Scottish 'invented' wine making in Australia, eh? Also, another fact, possibly to make the Aussies turn in their cafes, is that the flat white was invented in NZ. Ouch! Ouch!This definitely being our last night in Russell we went out for a meal to Gannets, which has a good reputation locally. Well, we had the worst meal that we have had in the whole of NZ and, as M commented at the time her worst meal ever. There isn't much we can say without going into precise detail but the main complaint was that M's meal of soya and honey chicken with ginger carrot and kumera (a nice NZ root vegetable) with a ? sauce, was very very unappetising - the chicken was dry, none of the flavours combined, and the sauce was disgusting. E's roast lamb was at least edible but not up to the standard we've come to expect. To be fair the owner/chef didn't charge for M's meal but he has a lot to learn. We mentioned our disappointment to John and Rongo in case it was helpful for future visitors. E & M xxx